Archive for the ‘Health & Beauty’ Category

Photofacial is one of the most popular treatments for skin rejuvenation and with good reason. Photofacial can treat a variety of skin conditions including skin discolorations and redness, but with all the different light devices and treatment names being used there is a lot of confusion about this versatile treatment.
What can be treated with IPL.
Photofacial uses Intense Pulsed Light (IPL), which is well absorbed by chromophores that have color such as melanin and hemoglobin (think red and brown). It works best for brown spots and vascular skin conditions. IPL treatments can help stimulate collagen production, can kill acne causing bacteria and some IPL devices can also be used for hair removal.
The most common conditions treated with IPL include:
- Rosacea
- Broken capillaries
- Flushing/ Facial redness
- Sun damage/Age spots
- Melasma
- Freckles
- Brown Spots
What is in a name?
Photofacial is a photo rejuvenation treatment that uses Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) technology. Photofacial is known by many different names with a variety of spellings including: PhotoFacial, Fotofacial, FotoFacial RF, Photo-Rejuvenation, Photoderm, BBL or simply IPL. These are essentially all the same thing, however some names may be trademarked, associated with a specific device or a developed treatment protocol. Dr. Patrick Bitter, Sr. developed the procedure PotoFacialSM in 1988 and Dr. Bitter Jr., is the developer of the FotoFacial™ and PhotoFacial™. BBL is Sciton’s trademarked name for their IPL machine, which is said to be the most powerful IPL device. You do not need to be overly concerned with the name being used to describe an IPL treatment, instead focus more on the device being used and the experience of the technician performing the treatment.
Learn More [Intense Pulsed Light (IPL) 101: Shining Light On Aesthetic Skin Treatments]
What device should be used for a Photofacial?
Photofacial is a treatment and the devices used is Intense Pulsed Light (IPL). Some people will use an LED device and call it a Photofacial, however this is not a true Photofacial. LED devices are commonly use in spas, they have lower energy and do not produce intense light.
Due to the increasing popularity of Laser and IPL treatments and the growing industry there has been an explosion of new devices on the market. Many of the new devices are less effective. As Laser Technicians we look for a device that gives us more precise control. IPL treatment settings do not work by simply turning a dial up or down. We control things such as the pulses, pulse duration, the amount of joules used and cut off filters. Devices that use a larger selection of cut-off filters are more effective because they allow for treatment of vascular and pigment lesions at different depths. In the authors opinion the best IPL devises are Scitons BBL and the Lumenis One/M22.
How many treatments are needed?
The first treatment will generally provide significant correction, however for best results a series of treatments are recommended. The exact number of treatments will vary depending on the condition being treated, the desired patient results, how the skin responds and how compliant you are with pre and post skin care. A very generic protocol would be a series of 5 treatments scheduled 3 weeks apart, however it is better to work on a plan that is designed specifically for your skin and your lifestyle.
What to expect after a Photofacial (IPL/ BBL).
There generally isn’t any down time with Photofacial, however if you have a lot of sun damage you may not look great for a week or two. Immediately after your treatment your skin will be a little pink and slightly warm. It is normal for it to feel like a mild sunburn, windburn or razor burn, but if you experience an excessive or lingering heat you should communicate this to your technician.
If you have brown spots they will darken up and gradually flake off over the next two weeks. Freckles tend to look darker, skin with a lot of discoloration may look “peppered” before it flakes off. If you have treated non-facial skin such as neck, chest, hands or arms it may take three weeks and some spots may take even longer. You may be able to speed up the process with a microdermabrasion 7-10 days after your treatment. Swelling and redness may also occur, you can apply cold packs to help with swelling and some people find an over the counter antihistamine helpful.
It may feel hot. If the skin does not cool down quickly after treatment it is very important that you go home and apply cold cloths until it is no longer hot. Take a large, clean bowl fill it with ice, add water and put clean washcloth in the bowl. Ring out excess water and apply cold cloth to treated area. When the cloth is no longer cold, trade it out for a cold one. Continue to do this until the area is no longer hot (this could take hours).
How can I improve the results of my Photofacial treatment?
The most important thing you can do is follow all pre and post care instructions, this includes not tanning, avoiding heat immediately post treatment and using the recommended topical skin care. If you are treating skin discolorations you will most likely need a skin care regimen that includes tretinoin and 4% hydroquinone. If you are treating rosacea you will need a topical vitamin-C. Everyone will need an approved sun protection with Zinc Oxide, the SPF should be over 30.
IPL treatments can be combined with other technologies for enhanced results. I will often use a vascular laser in my treatments for treating broken blood vessels or add Radiofrequency (RF) for skin tightening. Other possabilities include blue light for acne, laser resurfacing and laser hair removal. A microdermabrasion may be done prior to treatment to cause vaso diolation which can enhance results of an IPL treatment for those with facial reddness.
If you really want to increase your results you may want to do a PhotoDynamic Therapy (PDT) treatment. PhotoDynamic Therapy uses Levulan (aminolevulinic acid) also known as ALA to photosensitize the skin prior to a photofacial Adding Levulan results in a higher level of correction of freckles, sunspots, skin discolorations, broken blood vessels and redness. You will also have the added benefit of an aggressive acne treatment and treating Actinic keratosis (AK’s).
Read more about PhotoDynamic Therapy (PDT)
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If you are considering laser hair removal, you should know how many treatments you will truly need, and what type of a financial investment you will be making. I want to explain how many treatments you may need and why, so that you can make a more informed decision before you invest in laser hair removal.
I have people come in to our clinic after they have had a series of laser hair removal treatments at another clinic, and they are disappointed because they think it didn’t work. The problem is that many laser technicians will over promise and under deliver. The common misconception is that you will only need (let’s say 5) treatments. I don’t care what “they” tell you, this is almost never true! Don’t be surprised if you are told that “they” have the most effective laser on the planet and they can give you better results with only a few treatments. Maybe you will be told that you are perfect candidate, so you will need less than other people. If you buy this, I have a bridge to sell you. I do think that some technologies are more effective than others, however, even with the best technique and most effective equipment, you will still need several treatments. Even if you are the most ideal candidate in the entire world, you will still need several treatments.
Growth Cycle of Hair

Hair follicles go through a cycle of activity commonly refered to as the hair growth cycle. Each active hair follicle will continuously cycle through three phase of growth ( anagen, catagen and telogen). It is also important to understand that each hair follicle acts independently, so not all of the hair is in the same stage of growth at the same time. This is why it is necessary to have a series of laser hair removal treatments, scheduled at specific intervals.
Anagen Stage- Active Growing Stage
Catagen Stage – A Brief Transitional Stage
Telogen Stage – Resting Stage ( hair sheds at end of telogen stage)
With laser hair removal we are most concerned with hair in the anagen stage, because this is when the hair is at it’s maximum depth. The laser energy is absorbed by the melanin or water in the hair and we need to deliver the energy to the maximum depth of the follicle. This means that hair in the catagen or telogen stages of growth may singe and fall out with treatment, but they are not at thier maximum size or depth so they will likely grow back. So…. to reiterate, hair that is in the anagen stage of growth responds the best to laser hair removal.
The length of each cycle will depend on the region of the body, it will also vary from person-to-person and from time-to- time. Unfortunatly, in most areas the number of telogen hairs out number the amount of anagen hairs. For example the axillae (under arm) area is estimated to have about 70% of the hair in a telogen stage and the telogen stage in this area typically lasts for about 3 months. Again, this is not an exact science because there are several variables with the growth of hair and each idividual hair acts indepentaly. This means that the best you can hope for in this area is about 20% reduction per treatment and if by some sort of miracle your personal cycle of hair growth corasponds perfectly with your scheduled treatments you can complete your hair removal process with 5 treatments. However… you probably have a better chance of getting struck by lightining.
Potenial Follicals
We all are born with a certain amount of hair follicals which do not increase with age, however the activity of the follicles do increase. We all have many, many potential hair follicles. Potential follicals are dormant hair follicles that are not active (currently producing a hair), but have the ability to produce a hair if stimulated by the appropriate hormone. Trust me when I tell you that you will likely see new hairs pop up in areas that you have never had them before. This is important to understand because laser hair removal only effects hair follicles that have a hair in the follicle at the time of treatment. Laser hair removal treatments can not prevent potential follicals from having the ability to produce a hair in the future. This is another reason that everyone needs to plan on having maintanance treatments after the intial series of treatments.
How Many Hair Removal Treatments Will I Need?
An initial series of treatments are necessary and occasional maintenance treatments are almost always needed after the initial series. For facial areas, you should expect to do an initial series of 12 treatments (once a month for a year). For body areas, you should expect to do an initial series of 8 treatments (scheduled about 6-8 weeks apart over a year).
There is no way to predict exactly how many maintenance treatments you will need. Some people need one every year or so, while others require several treatments for several years. This is due mostly to genetics and hormones, however other factors include technique, technology, and patient compliance. There are some things you can do to help improve your results. Keep your treatments on the appropriate schedule, avoid tanning, search for an experienced laser technician and a reputable clinic that is known to use better equipment. Do not wax, tweeze, or remove the hair from the follicle before or between treatments. If you have excessive hair growth, you should consult with your doctor to address any medial conditions that may contribute to hair growth.
Questions you should ask before you pay
Who will be performing your treatment?
Will you always see the same person or will you have somebody new each time? Do they have the appropriate certification and training, how long have they been doing laser hair removal and how long have they been at that specific clinic ?
Who is the medical director?
Are you having treatment in a medical practice or a med spa ? What are the credentials of the medical director ? Is it a Nurse, Dermatologist, Plastic Surgeon, Chiropractor, Dentist, Veterinarian? Is the medical director on site? How often are they in the office and are they available to see you if you experience a complication?
What is available for pain management?
Yes, laser hair removal hurts. The good news is that we can do things to help. Usually, we will apply a topical numbing cream before treatment, and in our clinic we use a proprietary formula that is extremely effective. I have a few other tricks that I will not share.
How much will it cost?
Many med spas have tricky packages or “plans”. Find out how many treatments are included in your package and how you are expected to pay. Do you need to pay for a full package all up front, or can you make payments? How much will additional treatments cost after your initial series? Is there a discount? Do you need to buy another package or can you pay as you go? If you are offered some sort of contract or membership, be careful, and be sure to read between the lines! You should also be warned that it is not uncommon for a med-spa to go out of business, and not tell clients or employees. You may show up one day with the doors locked, and, if you prepaid for a package, you can kiss your money good-bye.
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Hydroquinone has been the gold standard for treating hyperpigmentation for over 50 years, but some confusion about hydroquinone has developed over the past few years. Common rumors include, hydroquinone has been banned or that it causes cancer. A lot of information found on the internet misrepresents hydroquinone by omitting some of the facts related to Hydroquinone studies and the FDA’s proposed rule.
I personally use hydroquinone on my skin to treat melasma and hyperpigmentation. I love what hydroquinone does for my skin and I have not been able to duplicate the results with other skin lighteners, however health is always going to outweigh the benefit of beautiful skin. I certainly would not want to use anything that is unsafe, furthermore I consider my self an advocate for my clients. It is important that my clients feel confidant in my knowledge of skin care and even more important that they trust that I always have their best interest in mind. I have spent a lot of time educating my self on hydroquinone and I aim to clarify some of the confusion.
What is Hydroquinone
Hydroquinone is an active ingredient used in topical creams and cosmetics as a depigmenting agent to treat skin discoloration such as melasma. Topical skin lightening creams containing Hydroquinone first became available in the United States in 1955. Hydroquinone has been described as a ubiquitous chemical, meaning it is something that we are exposed to as part of our daily life. Hydroquinone occurs in some plants as free hydroquinone or as arbutin. Arbutin (glucosylated hydroquinone) is found in the leaves and fruits of many plants that are used for food and bacteria in the intestines can transform it into hydroquinone. Hydroquinone and Arbutin can be found in foods such as cranberries, blueberries, pears, beans, broccoli, onions tea, coffee, beer, red wine, all-wheat bread and cereals (concentration may exceed 1%). Hydroquinone also has a number of other uses, it is used as an antioxidant for rubber, a reducing agent for photographic developing solutions, a stabalizer in paints and varnishes. It is also found in hair dyes and nail polish. The list goes on and on.
Does Hydroquinone Cause Cancer
Hydroquinone has been available as active ingredient for over 50 years and there have not been any reported cases of hydroquinone induced cancer in humans. There is also no evidence in human clinical studies to suggest that Hydroquinone could cause cancer in humans. It is suggested that additional studies are needed.
What about the Rats? I have heard and read many times that hydroquinone causes cancer in rats, so I decided to read the study and reviews myself. The 2 year gavage study with hydroquinone, showed some Rats with end stage CPN developed cancer. The problem is that you need to read the full report and it’s reviews before you develop a conclusion. CPN is a renal disease that affects various strain of rats, but has no counterpart in humans. In a 2007 review, McGregor concluded that hydroquinone is carcinogenic only in the context of end-stage CPN, which is not relevant in humans. There is some debate over using rats in carcinogenicity studies, as test results may not be relevant to humans. It should be noted that certain strain of rats are prone to spontaneously develop tumors.
Does Hydroquinone Cause Ochronosis
There are two types of ochronosis, endogenous and exogenous. It is only exogenous ochronosis which can be induced by the topical application of compounds including hydroquinone as well as antimalarias, mercury, resorcinol and phenol. Exogenous ochronosis is a fairly rare type of dermatitis that needs to be diagnosed by a dermatologist. It is not known exactly how hydroquinone induces ochronosis but suggested factors include: sun exposre, long term use of hydroquinone, high concentrations of hydroquinone, other active derivatives and penetrating vehicles such as t-butyl alcohol, mercuric compounds, resorcinol and hydroalcoholic lotion. Exogenous ochronosis is believed to be a progressive disorder that likely develops over several years.
Was Hydroquinone Banned
No, hydroquinone was not “banned” in the US. Hydroquinone is available in concentrations of 2% or less over the counter (OTC), and concentrations over 2% (typically 4%) are available in prescription strength in the United States.
To simply say Hydroquinone has been “banned” in other countries is something of a misrepresentation. First, we need to acknowledge that hydroquinone is an active ingredient available in prescription strength and over the counter (OTC) strength. I am not aware of any ban or proposed ban on prescription strength hydroquinone in any country. The confusion seems to come from the change in availability of over the counter (OTC) hydroquinone. In Japan and Australia hydroquinone is no longer available in cosmetics OTC (over the counter), it is only available as a prescription based ingredient.
As part of a review of OTC products, the FDA published a proposed rule in 2006 to consider the withdraw of the 1982 rule that recommended hydroquinone be GRASE, because of evidence indicating that hydroquinone may act as a carcinogen in rats and mice after oral administration. It is argued that this is not relevant in humans, so the proposed rule recommended additional studies should be conducted to determine if there is a risk to humans. The FDA has yet to make a final ruling, but until then it’s still believed that hydroquinone should remain available as an OTC (over the counter) drug product.
My Conclusion
I have considered the facts, studies, reviews and opinions of medical professionals and have concluded that I will continue to use hydroquinone. I would not be concerned if my mom, best friend, husband or children were using hydroquinone. I feel very confidant in the efficacy and safety of hydroquinone. I will continue review and consider any new information and I will modify this post if my opinion changes.
I have read hundreds of pages of studies, reviews, letters and other published literature on the subject of hydroquinone. I am not able to share everything I have learned, but I focused on some of the main points. I have included links to resources that are available on line, I encourage anyone who is concerned about hydroquinone to do thier own homework. I also recommend consulting with your doctor.
If you are using hydroquinone, be sure to use a broad spectrum sunblock and give your skin a resting period from hydroquinone. For example: 3 months on and 3 months off.
Warning
There have been reports of counterfeit beauty products and illegally imported skin care products containing mercury. I strongly discourage purchasing skin bleaching creams on-line.
Resources
FDA / Hydroquinone Studies Under The National Toxicology Program (NTP)
Nomination Profile /Hydroquinone [CAS 123-31-9] Supporting Information for Toxicological Evaluation by the National Toxicology Program /21 May 2009 / Prepared by U.S. Food & Drug Administration Department of Health and Human Services
Hydroquinone: An Evaluation of the Human Risks from its Carcinogenic and Mutagenic Properties / Critical Reviews in Toxicology 2007, Vol. 37, No. 10 , Pages 887-914 / Douglas McGregor /Toxicity Evaluation Consultants, Aberdour, Scotland, United Kingdom / Toxicity Evaluation Consultants, 38 Shore Road, Aberdour, KY30TU, Scotland, UK
FDA / Rulemaking History for OTC Skin Bleaching Drug Products
Guidance for Industry / S1B Testing for Carcinogenicity of Pharmaceuticals
The safety of hydroquinone: a dermatologist’s response to the 2006 Federal Register.
Skin Bleaching Drug Products For Over-the-Counter Human Use; Proposed Rule
Rats: Test Results That Don’t Apply to Humans
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Pay attention! I am about to share the ultimate beauty secret, the secret to anti-aging.
The desire to stay young and beautiful is a natural part of the human psyche and we are apparently willing to pay big bucks to achieve it. Americans spend billions of dollars each year on anti-aging products and services in a desperate search of the fountain of youth. Each new product we try offers a new opportunity to look younger, but they often prove to be nothing more than disappointment in a bottle. So… how can we avoid disappointment and achieve real results? The answer lies with a comprehensive approach. To understand the benefits of a comprehensive approach you should first try to grasp some of the basics of the aging face. After all, if we do not understand the aging process how can we know how to prevent or correct it?
What is a comprehensive approach to aesthetics in relation to the aging face?
Comprehensive Aesthetics uses a variety of treatments and products to cover a large scope of issues associated with the aging face. Aging occurs on many levels of the face, including the bone structure, muscular level, fat or volume distribution and finally the dermal and epidermal levels of the skin. To achieve the most ideal results it is necessary to address the affects of aging at each level, in order to do this a variety of treatments are needed. We also can not ignore the effects of lifestyle and general health, as both play a major factor in aging.
Aesthetic Professionals and Interdisciplinary Collaboration
Aesthetics is a branch of philosophy or science pertaining to the nature of art and beauty and aesthetic professionals are those whom are specially trained in the art of beauty. Utilizing a full team of medical aesthetic professionals, including a Plastic Surgeon, Dermatologist, Nurse Injector, Estheticians and Certified Laser Technicians, we are able to take advantage of interdisciplinary collaboration. Each professional possess a special set of skills that contributes to a truly comprehensive approach toward an attractive, youthful face.
Bone
Bone adds to the volume of the face and provides structural support to the other layers of facial tissue and skin. As we age there is a significant loss of facial bone which contributes to biometric volume loss. The bones that define your nose, and upper jaw and brow bone recede and the bones of the eye socket gradually widen. The jawbone also recedes and becomes less defined, reducing the angle of the lower jaw. Even the skull shrinks with age, further adding to excess facial skin. The loss of structural support creates noticeable changes in the other layers of tissue, simply put – when the bones that define your face recede your skin begins to droop and sag.
Bad news ladies, we begin to see bone loss as early as our 40′s, where men may not notice bone loss until their mid 60′s. This leads me to speculate that our complicated hormones may play a factor in bone density. As we age bone density can decrease, leading to diseases such as osteoporosis. Your doctor can help you monitor and address issues of bone density loss. Maintaining a healthy diet with enough calcium vitamin D and magnesium can also help prevent bone density loss.
Once bone loss has occurred you can take action with aesthetic treatments. Injectable fillers such as Sculptra can add volume and support for a more youthful and defined face. Sculptra is injected below the surface of the skin to correct the effects of fat loss and natural age-related bone loss. A plastic surgeon can strategically place fat into the face or use facial implants to make up for bone loss.
Muscle
Below the facial skin and fat, is muscle. The muscle and connective tissue add support to the overlying fat and skin of the face. As our face ages the ligaments stretch and the supporting system begins to elongate causing the face to droop or sag. When the face is sagging due to muscle, this is usually the time for surgical intervention. During a facelift the underlining muscles and tissues are lifted. If you are not ready for surgery, you may consider Ultherapy which does work at the top of the muscle (SMAS) and gives a non surgical lift. Keeping in mind that a non-surgical treatment will always provide a non-surgical result. Ultherapy will not remove excess skin or reposition fat pads, but it will provide a modest lift. Ultherapy is perfect for early intervention and probably as good as it gets without surgery.
Muscle contraction can also cause lines and wrinkles. The muscles we use to make expressions become etched in our face over time, this is most noticeable with the vertical lines between our brows commonly referred to as frown lines, as well as crows feet around the eyes and the lines across our forehead. At first these lines are only noticeable with facial movement, but with out preventative action they are constantly visible even without movement (wrinkles at rest). Botox or Dysport injections are used to treat the lines and wrinkles caused by muscle contraction. It is a good idea to consider these types of treatments early on to prevent the lines from becoming “permanent”. Once the lines and wrinkles have become permanently etched into the skin, fillers may be used to lift the area along with laser resurfacing to smooth the skin or in some more severe cases surgery may be recommended.
Fat and Volume Distribution
A youthful face has the right amount of fat in the right places. As we age some areas of the face loose fat while others gain fat. The areas of fat also become farther apart and the fat pads appear as separate structures rather than a smooth continuous layer.
Fat provides support and volume in the face, as we age this valuable fat begins to decrees. Fat loss creates overall volume loss which contributes to folds, lines and wrinkles. The signs of volume loss can be noticed as early as our 30′s and becomes more significant in our 50′s. As we lose fat in our mid face, we begin to notice things like sunken or flat cheeks, heavy lines and folds around the mouth. Volume loss can also be seen around the temples, near the brow bone and under the eyes. When volume is lost under the eyes, it creates a hollow look and dark circles. Injectables such as Sculptra, Juvederm and Restylane can be used to replace volume to the face. Fat injections can also be used to replace or add volume. Fat transfer or fat injections is a process in which a plastic surgeon removes fat from one area of the body and places it in another. ( How wonderful is that? )
Fat accumulation is often seen under the chin and along the jawline creating an undefined jawline and the dreaded jowls. Bags under the eyes are also the result of fat accumulating in the wrong area. A plastic surgeon can perform a blepharoplasty to remove the fat bags under the eyes. The jowls and fat along the jawline can be corrected with a facelift as fat pads are repositioned, but if you are not ready for surgery fillers can be strategically injected to help contour the jawline. If you opt for fillers over surgery you may consider adding Ultherapy for a modest lift.
During a facelift the underlining muscles and tissues are lifted, fat pads are repositioned, fat bags may be removed from under the eyes and volume may be added with fat injections as needed and excess skin is removed.
Skin
The surface layer of the skin is generally the first place we begin to notice the effects of aging, most of us begin to notice the effects of aging on our skin in our 30′s. As we age our skin has a reduction in collagen production, elastin, hyaluronic acid and skin cell turnover begins to slow. Uneven melanin production and distribution causes dark spots and skin discolorations. We begin to notice more broken capillaries, changes in skin texture, thickness, elasticity and moisture. When we are treating these issues in the skin we must first consider what skin functions are involve and what layer of the skin the problem begins.
The skin can be divided up into three basic layers Epidermis, Dermis and the Subcutaneous Layer (fat). When we talk about skin we are generally referring to the Epidermis and Dermis. The Epidermis is the top layer of the skin and the Dermis is the deeper layer.
Skin cell turnover in the Epidermis
The skin is constantly in a cycle of growth. The cycle of a skin cell is about six weeks, this is the time it takes for a new skin cell to rise to the surface of the skin and naturally slough off. As we age this process slows down and the dead skin cells begin to accumulate at the surface. When this happens the skin will have a dull appearance, rough texture, dark spots will become more dense and appear darker, and lines and wrinkles become more prominent. In addition to all of this, accumulation of skin cells can clog pores causing them to appear larger and lead to acne blemishes. The slowing of skin cell turnover begins in our 30′s, which is a good time to consider a medical based skin care regimen. Tretinoin (Retin-A), Laser and Chemical peels can stimulate skin cell turn over.
As the skin cell turn over rate slows so does wound healing. After an injury the skin takes longer to reepithelialize, meaning the top most layer of skin (Stratum Corneum) is not quickly replaced. This is why many Doctors and Estheticians recommend preconditioning your skin before surgery or skin treatments.
Collagen production
Collagen is important to youthful skin, but as we age collagen production slows down. Loss of collagen causes the dermal layer of skin to thin and reduces the skins ability to retain elasticity (from elastin) and moisture (from hyaluronic acid). This leads to the domino effect, as loss of elastin causes laxity in the skin and reduced hyaluronic acid which cause skin to be dryer, less supple and thinner.
Professional chemical peels, laser and IPL treatments can help to stimulate collagen production. Beyond professional treatments, a skin care program that includes continuous use of Tretinoin (Retin-A), topical vitamin -C and full spectrum sunscreen will help with collagen production. Tretinoin (Retin-A) is an effective way to stimulate collagen synthesis. Sun exposure degrades collagen so it is essential to use a good sunblock daily. Vitamin C is nessacerry to produce collagen and it protects skin from both UVA and UVB, by neutralizing the UV rays.
Pigmentation Melanocyte
A melanocyte is the cell that produces melanin (pigment), the melanin dispersed to keratinocytes, giving skin it’s color. As we age the cycle of melanin production and distribution becomes irregular.
As we age there is a reduction in the number of melanocytes. After age 30 the number of melanocytes decline about 6-8% every ten years. As the number of melanocytes decrease skin will become lighter, less even and white spots or patches (hypopigmentation) can be seen.
Browns spots and patches such as melasma, sunspots, age spots and freckles are known as hyperpigmentation. When a melanocyte produces more than normal amounts of melanin the result is hyperpigmentation. Furthermore the melanocyte doesn’t disperse the melanin evenly, so it is presented as dark spots or patches. Hormones and sun exposure are factors in even skin color.
There are many professional skin treatments that address hyperpigmentation, including chemical peels and Photofacial (IPL) treatments, however daily skin care is most important. Daily sun protection is necessary, this is not optional! Products containing hydroquinone suppresses tyrosinase, the enzyme involved in creating melanin. Botanical (plant based) lighteners can also help to suppresses tyrosinase, however alone are less effective than hydroquinone. Tretinoin (Retin-A) will help with the distribution of melanin.
Blood vessels
As we age the structural wall of the capillaries (tiny blood vessels) break down which results in broken capillaries. Flushing, redness and broken capillaries are treated with Photofacial (IPL) and laser treatments. Vitamin C can also help to strengthen capillary walls, I recommend a healthy diet with enough vitamin-C and a topical vitamin -C serum. A sunblock with Zinc oxide can further help by blocking some of the heat that causes blood vessels to dilate.
Lifestyle and Health
Our skin is a direct reflection of our health. All the skin care products and treatments in the world can only do so much, it is up to you to be proactive in maintaining your health.
- Work with your physician to maintain your health.
- Maintain a healthy diet with plenty of fruits and vegetables.
- Exercise contributes to a healthy body and hormone levels.
- Sun protection will go a long way to save your skin.
- If you smoke, quit!
- Limit alcohol consumption
- Drink plenty of water
- Get enough sleep
- Try to reduce stress (get a massage, take up yoga, relax)
- Hormones play a role in the aging process. Ask your doctor to monitor your hormone levels and discuss treatment options.
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The Fiszz facial is the newest on the scene for red carpet celebrity facials. Also known as the Effervescence Facial, the Fiszz facial by iS, was first introduced to Hollywood celebrities during the award season. Four Seasons Hotel Los Angeles at Beverly Hills exclusivly gifted VIP guests attending the Grammy’s and the Academy Awards with iS skincare line by Innovative Skincare. Shapiro Aesthetic Plastic Surgery and Skin Klinic is excited to be the first in Arizona to offer the Fiszz Facial. The FisZZ is a luxuriously effective facial designed to hydrate, sooth, brighten and purify skin instantly while taking you on a journey of fantastic sensations.
The FisZZ Facial begins with a delicious honey & papaya enzyme cleansing masque that gently warms as it is massaged onto the skin, followed by a citrus & rosemary clarifying mud masque that opens the skin’s pores, gently drawing out impurities. This uniquely formulated mud masque optimizes moisture levels in the skin, while it brightens skin tone, protects against oxidative damage, provides anti-inflammatory protection and encourages healthy cellular metabolism. The highlight of the FisZZ facial is the patented effervescent Citric Acid resurfacing masque that exfoliates & smoothes while providing a (fizzy) champagne-like sensation. A refreshing copper firming mist aids in collagen production, this innovative mist includes emollients to protect skin moisture, saponins which stimulate healthy immunity and herbal components which lessen age-related puffiness. The facial is completed the the application of topical serums, moisturizer and sun protection selected specifically for your skin type.
60 min
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Everybody wants an amazing eye cream, my self included (I am practically obsessed). The eyes are a focal point on our face, they are also the first place we start to show aging. We are all hoping for a miracle in a jar, unfortunately we may be setting our expectations too high.
An eye cream can do a lot for you, but there are somethings it can not do. An eye cream can add moisture, improve and strengthen the delicate skin under the eyes. An eye cream can treat dark circles with skin brighteners or ingredients that strengthen the blood vessels under the eyes. An eye cream can address puffiness by reducing swelling and inflammation. An eye cream can reduce or slow the effects of aging with Retinols/ AHA’s, Growth factors and antioxidants. When choosing an eye cream look at the ingredients (do they address your concerns). An eye cream can not add volume to a hollow under eye, remove fat pads that cause under eye bags, remove excess skin, lift a hooded brow or relax the muscles around the eyes that cause crows feet.
There comes a point when an aesthetic procedure may be needed to address your concerns.
Everyone needs an eye cream and there are plenty of great eye creams available. Finding an eye cream you love is largely based on personal preference, but a skin professional can point you in the right direction. Skin professionals hold the skin care products to a higher standard and tend to look for products with powerful ingredients or with a high concentration of key ingredients. Keep your expectations toward your eye cream realistic and when the time comes, except the hard truth that you may be ready for an aesthetic procedure.
[ Profesional Treatments And Procedures For Youthful Eyes ]
Elastiderm by Obagi
Benefits
Moisture Level – 0
Elastiderm eye helps to restore the elasticity around your eyes and reduce the appearance of visible fine lines and wrinkles. It is important to understand that this is not a moisturizing or hydrating product, this is a product intended to improve elasticity in the skin. I recommend you layer another eye cream over this for optimal results. I also like using the Clarisonic Opal with the Elastiderm gel to increase penetration. Elastiderm is available in a cream formula for those who prefer a smooth, rich consistency, and in a gel formula for those who prefer a cool, fluid consistency.
Features
Bi-mineral complex – Includes zinc and copper to help restore elasticity and build collagen
Malonic acid – helps stimulate the production of skin cells
Blueberry extract- antioxidants that help eliminate free radicals
Penetrating Therapeutics™ – An Obagi technology that helps drive the ingredients deep into the skin
Eye Repair Complex by Nia 24
Benefits
Moisture Level – 4
Ultra rich clinical strength cream that quickly penetrates to firm and brighten while minimizing dark circles, lines and puffiness.
Features
5% Pro-Niacin™ - The key ingediant in Nia 24 products is Pro Niacin which strengthens the cells and skin barrier to protect weak capillaries that can burst and release blood into the tissues (causing the appearance of dark circles). Pro-Niacin® has been clinically proven to strengthen the skin barrier by generating the growth and maturation of healthy skin cells from the inside-out.
Matrixyl™ – improves collagen
Vitamin C - illuminate / brighten, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, contributes to collagen production
Licorice – illuminate / brighten
White Birch – illuminate / brighten
Caffeine – reduce puffiness
Vitamin E - soothes
Awards
Best Beauty Buy 2010 by In Style Magazine
Uplifting Eye Serum by Skin Medica
Benefits
Moisture Level – 0
This oil-free serum (gel) soothes and tightens the delicate skin around the eyes to rapidly reduce the appearance of puffiness and fine lines. This product is not very moisturizing, but is great for puffy eyes. If you need additional moisture you can layer another eye cream over it. Because this is in a gel formulation you can use it with the Clarisonic Opal, another great tip is to keep it in the refrigerator. This is the product you want when you have been up a little too late.
Features
Algae Extract – An extract derived from a wide variety of plants grown in seawater and fresh water. Helps normalize the skin’s moisture content and provides skin-softening, remineralizing vitamins and antioxidants to the skin.
Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract - skin brightening e
Kojic Acid - A mushroom derived ingredient used to improve the appearance of skin tone.
Camellia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract - Provides powerful antioxidant properties that help protect from free radical damage.
Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract – A rich, natural source of salicylic acid, a beta-hydroxy acid.
Illuminating Eye Cream by Skin Medica
Benefits
Moisture Level – 2
This lightweight eye cream with the patented growth factor blend TNS®, peptides and chrysin helps to improve firmness and resiliency, brighten the skin around the eyes and minimize the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles and dark circles.
Features
Human Fibroblast Conditioned Media (TNS®) - A mixture of human growth factors, cytokines, antioxidants and matrix proteins. A physiologically balanced, naturally secreted and stabilized combination of multiple natural messenger proteins.
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 – A synthetic peptide
Palmitoyl Oligopeptide - A synthetic tripeptide
Hydroxysuccinimide and Chrysin – This combination of ingredients reduces the appearance of dark circles.
Boron Nitride- Optimizes the optical diffusion effect of light, which lessens the visibility of dark circles and discolorations to enhance skin appearance.
TNS Eye Repair by Skin Medica
Benefits
Moisture Level – 4
This luxurious eye treatment cream hydrates the fragile skin around the eyes and is formulated with the patented growth factor blend TNS®, peptides, high concentrations of antioxidant vitamins C and E and hyaluronic acid helps to increase firmness, improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles and minimize dark circles.
Features
Human Fibroblast Conditioned Media (TNS®) – A mixture of human growth factors, cytokines, antioxidants and matrix proteins. A physiologically balanced, naturally secreted and stabilized combination of multiple natural messenger proteins.
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 – A synthetic peptide that helps improve appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Palmitoyl Oligopeptide – A synthetic tripeptide
Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate – A stable, lipid-soluble ester form of ascorbic acid (Vitamin C).
Tocopheryl Acetate – A stabilized ester of vitamin E considered the most important antioxidant and free-radical scavenger.
Retinyl Palmitate – A natural lipid soluble form of retinol
Hydroxysuccinimide and Chrysin – This combination of ingredients reduces the appearance of dark circles.
Boron Nitride – Optimizes the optical diffusion effect of light, which lessens the visibility of dark circles and discolorations to enhance skin appearance.
Youth Eye Complex by IS Clinical
Benefits
Moisture Level – 3
Utilizes “intelligent proteins” that target damaged cites and help regenerate skin. Dermal structure is strengthened and the formation of collagen and elastin is encouraged. As a result skin is stronger and better to resist damage. Powerful peptides, growth factors and antioxidants rapidly reduce wrinkles, puffiness, dark circles and hyaluronic acid keeps skin smooth and moisturized.
Features
Sodium hyaluronate (botanically derived Hyaluronic acid) – retains water for immediate smoothness
Vitamins A, C, E, , K – antioxidants that combat free radical damage and contribute to collagen synthesis and overall improved cellular (and skin) health.
Hyaluronic acid microspheres – support moisture
Hydrolyzed Wheat and Protein – Skin strengthener that target cells that need repair and directs formation of new collagen
Copper Tripeptide Growth Factor HGF – can promote activation of wound healing, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory effects, encourages the synthesis of healthy collagen, which acts to promote healthy dermal restructuring
Panthenol (vitamin B5) – essential for cellular function, keeps cells healthy
[ is Clinical -Youth Complex ]
AGE Eye Complex by Skin Ceuticals
Benefits
Moisture Level -3
Immediately, optical diffusers improve radiance and minimize the appearance of dark circles and capillaries. Within four to twelve weeks, a synergistic complex of flavonoids and peptides further improves the appearance of dark circles and puffiness. By twelve weeks and beyond, blueberry extract helps interrupt the formation of advanced glycation end-products (A.G.E.) and Proxylane restores water and nutrient content to the dermal epidermal junction to visibly diminish wrinkles and crow’s feet
Features
Optical diffusers – improve radiance in tired, dull eyes
Complex of flavonoids and synergistic peptides – reduces the appearance of dark circles and diminishes puffiness and under-eye bags
Proxylane – restores water and nutrient content
Blueberry extract – antioxidant, helps fight free radicals
Age Intervention Eye Cream by Jan Marini
Benefits
Moisture Level – 4
Soften, smooth, hydrate, firm and define. Age Intervention Eye Cream is a spectacularly effective formula that delivers ultra smooth, contoured-looking eyelid skin that appears flawlessly ageless.
Age Intervention Eye Cream is based upon a proprietary patent-pending peptide/retinol combination with other supporting key technologies that synergistically provide remarkable benefits.
Features
Peptides: Myristoyl Pentapeptide-8 and Myristoyl Tetrapeptide-12
All-Trans-Retinol
Hyaluronic Acid
Green Tea Extract
CoEnzyme Q10
Essential Fatty Acids
Transformation Eye Cream by Jan Marini
Benefits
Moisture Level – 3
Transformation Eye Cream anti-aging technology leaves the skin noticeably smoother and retextured. Transformation Eye Cream utilizes ingredients specifically tailored to signal certain activities, including the rebuilding and repair of damaged cells, to maintain and augment the appearance of youthful, healthy skin. Transformation Eye Cream is suitable for any skin type and benefits the thinner, more age-prone eye area to dramatically lessen the visible signs of aging. It is a highly emollient formulation that provides unique lubrication and hydrating factors that actually bond to the area surrounding the eyes. This bonding action enables the thinner eye area skin to more easily and flexibly cope with movement and environmental exposure.
Features
TGF β-1 (transforming growth factor)
Vascular Endothelial Growth Factor
Thymosin β4 (sh-Oligopeptide-4)
Peptides: Myristoyl Pentapeptide-8 & Myristoyl Pentapeptide-11
Antioxidants
Plant Extracts
Neocutis Lumiere Bio-Restorative Eye Cream
Benefits
Moisture Level – 3
Fast absorbing, non-greasy formulation blends flawlessly into skin, soothes and refreshes the delicate eye area to help minimize signs of fatigue. Helps reduce the appearance of under eye darkness and puffiness. Formulated with more PSP to smooth and soften the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Intensive line smoothing eye cream with PSP (growth factors) and age minimizing actives energizes, revitalizes and rejuvenates the delicate eye area. PSP and Hyaluronic Acid help firm and hydrate the delicate skin under and around the eyes.
Features
PSP® (protein blend of Human Growth Factors, Cytokines and Interleukins)
Hyaluronic acid- help firm and hydrate skin under
Caffeine - helps alleviate signs of skin puffiness.
Specific Concerns
Puffiness
If your main concern is puffiness under your eyes, I suggest Uplifting Eye Serum by Skin Medica. Other eye creams that address this issue are:
Eye Repair Complex by Nia 24
Youth Eye Complex by IS Clinical
AGE Eye Complex by Skin Ceuticals
Neocutis Lumiere Bio-Restorative Eye Cream
Dark Circles
If your main concern is dark circles, I would suggest Eye Repair Complex by Nia 24. Other eye creams that address this issue are:
Illuminating Eye Cream by Skin Medica
TNS Eye Repair by Skin Medica
Youth Eye Complex by IS Clinical
AGE Eye Complex by Skin Ceuticals
Neocutis Lumiere Bio-Restorative Eye Cream
Moisturizing
If you are most concerned with moisturizing I suggest you try TNS Eye Repair by Skin Medica or Eye Repair Complex by Nia 24. Most eye creams are moisturizing on some level however some products such as Obagi Elastiderm or Uplifting Eye Serum by Skin Medica are not moisturizing at all.
Tightening
If you are concerned with tightening the lax skin under your eyes I suggest Elastiderm by Obagi. I would layer this with an eye cream that contains a growth factor such as Illuminating Eye Cream by Skin Medica, TNS Eye Repair by Skin Medica, Youth Eye Complex by IS Clinical or Neocutis Lumiere Bio-Restorative Eye Cream.
A Little of Everything
My choice for “over all ” eye cream would probably have to be Youth Eye Complex by IS Clinical. I also like really like TNS Eye Repair by Skin Medica, but does not address puffiness. Other great choices are Eye Repair Complex by Nia 24 and Neocutis Lumiere Bio-Restorative Eye Cream.
My personal favorites
I personally like to start with Elastiderm by Obagi and layer another eye cream on top of that. I alternate between Youth Eye Complex by IS Clinical, TNS Eye Repair by Skin Medica and Eye Repair Complex by Nia 24. In the fall when my allergies start up I will probably get the Uplifting Eye Serum by Skin Medica to use in the morning under another eye cream.
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Ultherapy is a new type of non-surgical, non-invasive procedure for the face that uses ultrasound and the body’s own natural healing process to lift, tone, and tighten loose skin. Ultherapy is the latest buzz in beauty, it has been featured on shows like 20/20 with Barbara Walters, Dr OZ, The Doctors, Today Show, Rachel Ray, Good Morning America and The View.
Whats The Big Deal?
Ultherapy is a very exciting advancement to those of us in the world of aesthetics for several reasons. First, we are talking about LIFTING and TIGHTENING, not just tightening. An Ultherapy treatment tightens the skin and gives the face a vertical lift. Just incase you missed that, I said “LIFT”! Ultherapy uses ultrasound imaging and ultrasound energy. The ultrasound imaging allows us to see exactly where we are treating. We are able to be very specific in where the ultrasound “energy” or Thermal Coagulation Points are delivered in the skin. The most exciting thing is the depth we are able to treat. Ultherapy is the only non-invasive treatment that can specifically target the deep foundation below the skin that is addressed in cosmetic surgery without cutting or disrupting the surface of the skin. I can’t forget to mention that there is NO down time, which is very convient for those who can’t spare the time to recover from surgery.
Where does it go?
To achieve skin tightening you need to target the skin at a fairly deep level, the dermis and superficial muscle. Procedures that treat the epidermis will not tighten or lift the skin. The Ulthera works at three separate levels, the upper dermis, lower dermis and the SMAS/ Platisma. The area where the facial muscles are connected to the dermis is refered to as the (SMAS). This superficial muscle is something that would be addressed by a facial plastic surgeon during a facelift to reduce the appearance of sagging jowls, cheeks and neck skin. With the Ulthera we are able to address this area without surgery.
Why so specific?
With the Ulthera the “energy” is delivered in a very specific way. This is important because in the past if we wanted to tighten the skin we were mostly limited to devices that use Radiofrequency (RF). Radiofrequency works by delivering heat ( volumetric heating ) deep into the skin to stimulate collagen production and tighten skin. The challenge with RF devices is that they are not very specific. Unlike lasers, RF devices do not precisely reach targeted areas and they are not absorbed by a specific chromophore. Simply put, radiofrequency does not know where to go on it’s own, so it is not as precise as Ulthera or laser treatments. Lasers on the other hand are very precise, they use a single wavelength to target specific chromophores at specific depths of the skin (selective heating). Lasers however do not reach the necessary depth in the skin to achieve skin tightening or lifting. Lasers are not used specifically for tightening, they are more appropriate for treating skin discoloration, vascular lesions, unwanted hair, tattoo removal, acne treatments, peeling and resurfacing treatments to treat scars, lines and wrinkles. Ulthera is in a class all it’s own, it uses (focused ultrasound heating) to precisely target the deep structural support layers of the skin.
Radiofrequenc / Volumetric heating / No Precision
Lasers/ Selective heating / No depth
______________________________________________________________________
Ulthera / Focused Ultrasound Heating / Precision & Depth
Benefits include:
Tightens and tones the deepest tissues of the skin
Stimulates new collagen production for lasting skin tightening effects
Lifts and brightens the brows and eyes; achieving a non-surgical brow-lift
Defines and contours the neck and jowls
Adds volume to the surface of the skin; reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles
What to expect
Ultherapy will addresses mild to moderate loose or sagging skin, by tightening and gradually lifting the skin. After your treatment there are not any special post treatment instructions or down time. The results will unfold over the course of 2-3 months and some patients have reported continued improvement for up to 6 months. As impressive as the results are, you should always have realistic expectations. You will not achieve surgical results with a non-surgical treatment .
If you are interested in learning more about Ultherapy call Shapiro Aesthetic Plastic Surgery and Skin Klinic to schedule a consultation.
Shapiro Aesthetic Plastic Surgery and Skin Klinic
5410 N. Scottsdale Rd., Ste F-100
Paradise Valley, AZ 85253
480 421.1701
wwwshapiroplasticsurgery.com
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You invest in quality skin care products with the best intentions, but do you know how to use them correctly? It can be a difficult enough to choose skin care products that are effective and appropriate for your skin, knowing how to use them correctly only adds to the challenge.
Do I use this every day? Do I use this in the morning, at night or both. In what order do I apply my products? Should I use these products together? With so many questions about using skin products, I thought it was a good idea to share a few basic guidelines. There is such a huge variety of skin products, not to mention a variety of skin type, it would be impossible to list every possible regimen. This is only a generic guideline. I recommend consulting with a skin professional to customize a skin care regimen appropriate for your
Layering skin care products in order
To maximize the benefits of your skin care products you need to use them in proper order. Not everyone will use all of these products, simply use them in order as they apply to you. In general you will use skin products in order of consistency, lightest to heaviest. Starting with cleanser, followed by any liquids such as a toner or a topical antibiotic. After cleansing and toning you will apply any serums, followed by any gel products, then creams and sunscreen is the last thing you apply.
Cleanser
Toner
Topical antibiotics
Serums
Gels
Eye Cream
Creams
Sunscreen
Makeup Primer
Makeup
Scrubs
Scrubs may be used before or after a cleanser. Personally, I usually use a scrub first and then use a cleanser to ensure that all the little scrub granules are removed
Facial Masque
A facial masque is used after cleansing. Depending on the mask you may cleanse it off, wipe it off or rinse it off. Follow the directions on the label. If you are using a facial scrub, you should use the scrub first and then follow with a mask. Be cautious of using a scrub and a mask together, if either product has active ingredients such as glycolic or salicylic acid. Most over the counter products are not very strong, however combing them may cause some irritation. After removing the mask you may use serums, gels and creams.
Sunscreen
Sunscreen is the most important thing you will apply to your skin. You should choose your sun protection responsibly and use it religiously. I do not recommend using moisturizers or cosmetics with SPF ( with a few exceptions). The sun protection in most of these products do not provide sufficient sun protection and even if they did you probably would not apply enough of the product to adequately protect your skin, so you will still need to use a actual sunscreen. Some of the ingredients used in sunscreen do not play well together and if you use a moisturizer with an ingredient that doesn’t work well with an ingredient in your sunblock, they may reduce the protection you are getting.
When to use skin products, AM/ PM or both.
Cleanser AM/PM
Toner AM/ PM
Topical antibiotics AM /PM. ( as needed)
Antioxidant AM
Hydroquinine products AM / PM
Exfoliants PM (usually)
Peptides AM or PM
Moisturizers AM and/ or PM
Sunscreen AM Every day! Reapply every two hours with extended sun exposure.
Cleansers
You should cleanse your face in the morning and again before you go to bed. It is also a good idea to cleanse after sweating, this is especially important for young athletes with acne. Although most cleansers are fine to use twice a day, there are some cleansers that should be used only once a day. Cleansers with active ingredients such as salicylic acid, glycolic acid or benzoyl peroxide may cause irritation if used twice a day. If you are using an “active” cleanser at night use a basic cleanser in the morning or vice versa.
Toner
Most toners can be used twice a day, however there are some exceptions. If you are using a product with an active ingredient such as glycolic acid, salicylic acid or Benzoyl peroxide you may want to limit use to one time a day. This will depend a lot on the strength of the product and what other skin products you are using.
Topical Antibiotics
Topical antibiotics should be applied to clean, dry skin. Topical antibiotics can be drying if used excessively, I usually suggest to use them as needed. If you have very oily skin with active inflamed acne, you can probably tolerate using a topical antibiotic twice a day. I also suggest using the topical antibiotic after exercising or anything that causes you to sweat. Athletes should cleanse face and shower as soon as possibly, then apply the topical antibiotic.
Topical Antioxidants
Topical antioxidants should be used during the day to help combat the many free radicles we encounter during the day. Topical Vitamin-C also helps prevent sun damage. Some antioxidants are also believed to enhance the effectiveness of sun screan.
There are many, many skin care products that contain antioxidants, however those found in serums usually penetrate the best. A serum that contains at least 10% L-ascorbic acid is ideal. Although L-ascorbic is thought to be the most important of topical antioxidants, I believe that variety is important. No single antioxidant works against all free radicals and they work well when paired up. For this reason you may choose to use a Vitamin-C serum and another topical antioxidant product such as Prevage MD.
Peptides
If you are using a copper peptide, their are some considerations. If you use tretinoin (Retin-A) at night, you may want to use copper peptide during the day. Copper peptides can make you topical Vitamin-C inactive, so if you use a topical Vitamin C, use the copper peptide at night or alternate days. Copper peptides act as an antioxidant and stimulate collagen synthesis in moderate use, however they can have an opposite effect if used in excess.
Exfoliants
When I say to exfoliants, I am referring to skin care products that contain exfoliating agents such as Tretinoin or AHA’s. Exfoliants should be used at night, however you may use one exfoliant at night and another in the morning. An example would be using Tretinoin (Retin-A) at night and Obagi Exfoderm in the morning.
Moisturizers
How you use a moisturizer will depend on your skin and the product it’s self. In general I do not put a huge emphasis on moisturizers. I personaly find the benefit of moisturizers to be mostly temporary and cosmetic, however there are some exceptions. The exceptions include sunburned or compromised skin, women post menopause, certain medical conditions, and those under going cancer treatment. If you have recently had a chemical peel or laser treatment, it is usually recommended to use a moisturizer several times a day. I recommend using a moisturizer during the day to benefit from it’s cosmetic effect.
Skin care products you should not use together
Antioxidants and Benzoyl Peroxide
Benzoyl Peroxide products work by introducing oxygen into the skin to inhibit bacteria proliferation. The oxygen will oxidize other skin care products such as topical antioxidant. When you use a peroxide product with an an antioxidant, they essentially cancel each other out.
Benzoyal Peroxide & Hydroquinone
Using hydroquinone together with benzoyl peroxide, hydrogen peroxide, or other peroxide products may cause a temporary staining of your skin. This staining can usually be removed by cleansing the skin.
Copper Peptide & Vitamin – C
Copper Peptides can inactivate topical Vitamin C. If you use both products, use the Vitamin C during the day and the Copper peptide at night or alternate days.
Avobenzone and Zinc Oxide
The three ingredients that are approved by the FDA to protect against UVA rays are avobenzone, titanium dioxide, and zinc oxide. You should always choose a sunscreen that contains at least one of the three ingredients. The challenge is that Avobenzone has been shown to degrade other sunscreen ingredients such as oxybenzone, octinoxate, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. I am not sure if the United States even permits the combination of Avobenzone and physical sunscreens in skin products. (I have been trying to confirm if this is still true)
Avobenzone and Mineral Makeup
Mineral makeup is made with physical sunscreens and is not compatible with Avobenzone.
Skin care products you should use together
Cleanser and Clarisonic Cleansing Brush
Many people will spend less than 20 seconds cleansing their face, leaving behind makeup, dirt and oil. The Clarisonic Cleansing Brush uses sonic frequency of more than 300 movements per second to deep clean the skin and is set on a 60 second timer per use. Cleansing with the Clarisonic brush will remove 6x more makeup and 2x more dirt and oil than cleansing alone.
Vitamin C and Sunscreen
Using a topical Vitamin-C product can help enhance the benefits of your sunscreen. Topical Vitamin C is considered a photoprotectant. A photoprotectant does not work the same way as sunscreen, instead it protects skin from both UVA and UVB, by neutralizing the UV rays. When choosing a topical Vitamin C be sure to select a product with L ascorbic acid of 10% or more.
Hydroquinine and Tretinoin (Retin-A)
Hydroquinone and Tretinoin work synergistically. Both Hydroquinone and Tretinoin are very effective on their own, when you combine them you will enhance the effectiveness of both products.
Tretinoin and AHA’s
Tretinoin (Retin-A) can be used with mild AHA’s. A good example would be, the Obagi Nu-Derm system involves using Tretinoin at night and Exfoderm or Exfoderm Forte in the morning. Exfoderm uses a very mild Phytic acid and the Exfoderm Forte uses glycolic acid. Care should be taken when combining tretinoin with AHA’s. Tretinoin is a medical strength product and should be used under the supervision of a skin professional
Mineral Makeup and Physical Sunscreen
Although you should avoid using a chemical sunscreen with mineral makeup, you can use a physical sunscreen with a mineral makeup. Mineral makeup is made with Titanium Dioxide and Zinc Oxide, so it will be compatible with any physical sunscreen you use.
Mineral Makeup with Tretinoin (Retin-A)
Tretinoin causes the skin to be dry and flakey. Most traditional makeup will only enhance the flaking. Just try to use liquid makeup on flakey peeling skin, it’s not pretty. Most powders are made with talk, which is a cheep filler and it will cause the skin to be more dry. True mineral makeup does not contain any talc. Mineral makeup also has anti-inflammatory properties that can help reduce the redness experienced with the use of tretinoin. Another benefit is that it is a physical sunscreen, it will not irritate sensitive skin and is easy to reapply through out the day.
The content provide in this post is intended to be informative and does not replace medical or professional treatment.
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It is not surprising that the bikini area is one of the most common areas treated with laser hair removal. There are many advantages to having laser hair removal on the bikini area, but the most obvious is convenance. Lasers offer a more permanent solution to hair removal than waxing or shaving, so you don’t have the constant maintenance. Laser hair removal eliminates stubble, ingrown hairs and irritating red bumps. After laser hair removal, you no longer have to worry about shaving or waxing before you put on a swimsuit or skimpy little panties the area is always smooth.
Terms for popular bikini hair removal styles
Many of the terms used to describe the styles for bikini hair removal are used interchangeably, so always be sure to communicate exactly what you want with the person doing your bikini hair removal treatment.
Basic Hair is only removed from outside of the standard bikini panty line.
American (Modified Bikini) Hair is removed a little deeper inside bikini line than the basic.
FrenchHair is removed from the sides, leaving a thin strip on top. Hair is not removed from the labia, buttock or peri-anal area.
Brazilian Hair is removed from the sides, buttock and peri-anal area, leaving a small strip or triangle. Hair is not removed from the labia.
Playboy Hair is removed everywhere including labia, buttock and peri-anal area, leaving only a small strip on top.
Hollywood Everything is removed, leaving the area completely bare.
Bollywood Bejeweling the top of the bikini area, with crystals.
Bunny Tail Just above the anal area, between the cheeks
Don’t be shy
Many people feel embarrassed or awkward about having hair professionally removed from the bikini and anal area. As an Esthetician and Laser Technician, I can assure you that nobody should ever feel embarrassed about having a bikini wax or laser hair removal. This is our job, this is what we do all day. We do not care about the size, shape or color of anything. You do not have anything we have not seen before. ( Unless you have two vaginas) I have seen it all, piercings, tattoos, tampon strings and hemorrhoids. I have treated women, men and pre-op transsexuals. If you are someone that feels shy about having a bikini treatment, try to remind yourself that you are being treated by a professional.
What to expect during a treatment
Before you have a laser hair removal treatment you will have a consultation with your laser technician. During your consultation you will discuss what shape or style you would like, it is usually best to shave the area in the shape you like about two days before your treatment. Your laser technician may shave the area if there are any long hairs.
You will be taken in to a private room and asked to undress from the waist down. The technician will leave the room while you undress. You may wear panties or a swimsuit if you are only treating the hair that extends outside the pantie line. After undressing you will lay on the table and drape yourself with a sheet or towel. The laser technician will come back into the room and prep the area by shaving any hair that is to long and then applying a topical numbing cream. ( Numbing cream is optional) The numbing cream is usually left on for about thirty minutes before the treatment begins. After the numbing cream has had a chance to take effect your technician will come back in and begin treatment. Your technician will treat a section at a time, draping the other areas. The treatment itself takes about thirty minutes.
After your treatment the area may feel like a mild sun burn or razor burn. The area may also have little red bumps, this is follicular edema. Follicular edema is a normal response to the hair follicle heating up. The hair will begin to fall out over the next two weeks after treatment. It is important to keep the area cool immediately after your treatment.
How many treatments are needed?
Laser hair removal requires a series of treatments, a minimum of 8 treatment is needed on non-facial areas such as the bikini. Treatments are generally done about 6 weeks apart. Most people will require periodic maintenance treatments, after the initial series of 8 treatments. You may be told that you will only need 5 treatments, this is almost never true. There is not any special laser that has the ability to eliminate hair with fewer treatments.
Why do you need so many treatments?
When we do laser hair removal, we treat the entire area and most of the hair will fall out with each treatment. Unfortunately, only a small percentage of hair is permanently removed with each treatment. In most cases less than ten percent will be permanently removed with each treatment. The reason has to do with the growth cycle of hair. Hair goes through a growth cycle that includes anagen, catagen and telogen. Hair that is in the Anagen stage ( active growing phase) respond best to laser hair removal. Each hair follicle acts independently, so not all hair will be in the same cycle of growth at the same time. On the bikini area you may have only about thirty percent of hair follicles that are in the anagen stage at any given time, while up to 70% can be in a telogen stage for about twelve weeks. These growth cycles vary from person to person, and from time to time.
To complicate the hair removal process even further we all have “potential” follicles that have never produced hair, but have the potential to grow hair. The number of potential follicles far out number the anagen or telogen follicles. These potential hair follicles can be stimulated to produce a hair at any given time and laser hair removal can not prevent a potential follicle from having the ability to produce a hair.
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