Posts Tagged ‘exfoliation’
Microdermabrasion is a form of mechanical exfoliation or micro-resurfacing, that utilizes a specific mechanical medium to gently abrade the top most layer of skin along with adjustable suction. There are many mechanical mediums used for microdermabrasion including: Aluminium Oxide Crystals, Sodium Bicarbonate Crystals, Sodium Chloride Crystals, Bristle tips, natural and synthetic Diamond Tips. DiamondTome is a natural, non-partical form of microdermabrasion that utilizes natural diamond chips at various levels of coarseness attached to the tip of a wand.
DiamondTome eliminates the powders and crystals, by using the polishing action of diamond chips and the cleaning action of controlled vacuum. This non-particle form of microdermabrasion offers a clean controlled procedure.
Microdermabrasion Plus:
When you have a Microdermabrasion facial treatment at Paradise Valley Skin Klinic, you will enjoy the added benefits of full custom facial and dermaplaning. The microdermabrasion procedure removes the top most layer of skin by gently exfoliating the skin with natural diamond chips while at the same time vacuuming the dead skin cells away, in a sterile and controlled manner. This exfoliation promotes the growth of healthy new skin cells. You will immediately experience cleaner, softer and smoother skin after with each treatment.
Paradise Valley Skin Klinic also offers Microdermabrasion with Sodium Bicarbonate Crystals
Why do I need Microdermabrasion?
Our skin is constanly growing, similar to our hair and nails. The normal cycle of skin cell turn over is about six weeks. This means that a new skin cell is produced, and slowly moves to the surface of the skin (stratum corneum), then is naturally sloughed or exfoliated off and replaced by a new skin cell. As the skin ages the process of skin cell turn over slows down and dead skin cells build up on the surface of the skin. As the stratum corneum becomes thick with a build up of dead skin cells, this skin will have a rough dull appearance and texture. Pigmented skin cells also becomes more dense causing hyperpigmentation, such as melasma, freckles, sun spots or any skin discoloration to look worse. Dead skin cells can also build up in the pore contributing to blackheads, whiteheads and acne breakouts.
When the skin is exfoliated with microdermabrasion the dead skin cells are immediately removed from the surface of the skin, and the fibroblast is stimulated to produce collagen. Exfoliation is a way of speeding up the process of skin cell turnover. Removing dead skin cells from the skins surface will allow for better penetration of topical skin care products, you can actually double the effectiveness of your products. Exfoliating the skin will also reduce the appearance of hyperpigmentation, fine lines, superficial scars and help combat acne.
Is there any discomfort or downtime?
No. Microdermabrasion with the DiamondTome is very comfortable, most people actually enjoy the way it feels. Microdermabrasion feels similar to the “scratchy” surface of a cats tongue, along with mild suction. One advantage to microdermabrasion is there isn’t any down time. You can have a microdermabrasion on your lunch break, reapply makeup and return to work.
What are the limitations of microdermabrasion?
Unfortunately, there are some exaggerated claims to microdermabrasion benefits. It’s important to have a realistic expectation for skin treatments. Microdermabrasion is a fairly superficial form of exfoliation compared to chemical peels and laser resurfacing. Each technique has unique benefits and has a special place in skin care. Microdermabrasion is intended to exfoliate the skin without downtime or discomfort. Treatments can be done on a regular basis to maintain the skin and performed between other skin treatments to expedite and enhance results.
There are limits to microdermabrasion, it does not reach skin below the stratum corneum, even if done once a week it will not have an effect on the deeper layers of skin. It is necessary to reach skin cells at deeper layers to treat many skin conditions, for this reason microdermabrasion can not be used to replace laser resurfacing procedures or chemical peels.
Microdermabrasion alone will not eliminate hyperpigmentation. Exfoliation will remove the dense layers of dead skin cells on the skins surface, by removing these layers, pigmentation will be less dense and the appearance of skin discolorations will be reduced. The discoloration is still there it just appears lighter because it is less dense. As the skin continue’s to “grow” and as the stratum corneum builds back up, the pigmentation will return. Your skin care professional can help you select topical agents to help better treat skin discolorations.
Can I get the same results with Microdermabrasion products at home
No, these products generly use crystals similar to those used in Microdermabrasion treatments. They are basiclly facial scrubs, and don’t exfoliate skin to the same level of a Profesional Microdermabrasion treatment. Proffesional treatments use equipment that allow for controll of the negetive pressure or suction used as well as the release of abrading crystals or the abrasiveness of wand. The technique used also plays a role in the effectiveness of treatment.
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Tretinoin ( retinoic acid) is the acid form of vitamin A and is available as a cream or gel (brand names Retin-A, Renova, Aberela, Airol, Atralin, Avita, or Stieva-A). Tretinoin was FDA approved as a topical medication in 1971. Tretinoin treats acne, minimizes pores and reduces oiliness. The anti-aging benefits of tretinoin include, reducing appearance of fine lines and skin discoloration.
Tretinoin promotes detachment of cornified cells and the enhanced shedding of corneocytes from the follicle. Tretinoin also increases the turnover rate of thin, loosely-adherent corneocytes. By making keratin softer and more gelatinous, the stratum corneum becomes soft and compact. Tretinoin suppresses the melanocytes, this is why it is often used when treating skin discoloration.
Tretinoin stimulating fibroblast.
It is believed that tretinoin stimulates the fibroblast. Some studies suggest that tretinoin can help firm the skin by stimulating fibroblast activity. Fibroblasts produce collagen, elastic fibers, and the ground substance of the dermis. With age fibroblasts become smaller and less active.
Tretinoin enhances the skin healing process.
Studies show that topical use of tretinoin before chemical peels, enhanced healing. There is more epidermal regeneration and collagen regeneration appears to be faster when skin was pre treated with tretinoin.
Tretinoin makes my skin peel and it feels tight and dry.
Initially, tretinoin dehydrates the skin the outer surface of the skin ( stratum corneum ), causing a rapid exfoliation. The good news is, tretinoin repairs the damaged keratinocytes, increases mitosis, and restores proper hydration. With time your skin builds up tolerance and reactions subside.
Does tretinoin thin the skin?
I have heard people say, “don’t use tretinoin it thins the skin”. I think there is some confusion, about what part of the skin is thinning and if that is a good or bad thing.
Tretinoin works by thinning the outermost layer of the skin (stratum corneum), while cells in the epidermis are stimulated to produce a thicker epidermis layer. Collagen production and cellular growth in the dermis layer also increases. Although it is true that tretinoin does thin the stratum corneum, it actually makes other layers of the skin thicker. Thinning the stratum corneum isn’t exactly a bad thing. With age the statum corneum can become thick and dehydrated causing the appearance of fine lines and rough, sallow skin.
Epidermis Stratum corneum, outermost layer with dead keratinocytes being exfoliated off.
Is retinol the same as Retin-A ( tretinoin)?
Many people confuse retinol with Retin-A (tretinoin). Retinol and retinoic acid (tretinoin) are related but distinctly different. Retinol, retinal and retinyl palmitate, do not have the same effect on the skin as tretinoin/ retinoic acid. They first need to be converted by special enzymes into the active metabolite, retinoic acid. Unfortunately , the conversion rate is low and varies among individuals. The other problem is that when retinols are exposed to air, they can become oxidized and degraded. There are some companies that have produced retinol formulas that are more stabilized.
Tretinoin vs AHA’s
Tretinoin causes a rapid coarse exfoliation, which is the shedding of attached group of cells. AHA’s cause shedding of individual cells. The action of AHA’s is extracellular, compared to the intracellular action of tretinoin. The intracellular action of tretinoin works goes into the dermis and stimulates the fibroblast. The effects of tretinoin can last up to four months even after product has been discontinued, in contrast to the short lasting smoothing effects of AHAs.
Tretinoin is a drug.
Tretinoin is a drug and should be used only as prescribed. There are certain contraindications for using Tretinoin, including pregnancy and nursing. You should not wax skin that has been treated with tretinoin and some skin treatments are not recommended while using tretinoin. Be sure to discuss possible contraindications with your skin professional.
*You should never purchase Tretinoin or any other prescribed drug on line.
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Skin Medica’s Vitalize Peel has been a popular skin treatment for many years, however you may not be familar with Skin Medica’s newer Illuminize and Rejuvenize Peels.
SkinMedica Rejuvenize Peel™ launched in October 2009.
Skin Medica’s Vitalize Peel In The Press
Level of Skin Medica Chemical Peels
Illumenize Peel, Very Superfical with little to no peeling
Vitalize Peel, Superficial with 2-3 days peeling
Rejuvenize Peel, Superficial with 2-5 days peeling
Rejuvenize Peel
Rejuvenize Peel™ is a blend of Salicylic Acid, Lactic Acid, Resorcinol, Panthenol and Isoceteth-20 with the addition of .3% Retinoic Acid. Deeper than SkinMedica Vitalize Peel®, Rejuvenize Peel™ produces a moderate amount of peeling for 2-5 days, and can be repeated every 4-6 weeks.
Rejuvenize Peel is an advanced formulation of peeling agents, with a built-in anti-irritant and penetration enhancer that provides controlled exfoliation of the uppermost damaged layers of the skin to reveal fresher and healthier skin. Provides predictable results with minimal down time.
Effective for use on skin with sun damage, melasma, pigmentary changes and acne scarring
Noticeable improvement with just one peel
Recommended for Skin types I-VI
Well tolerated with minimal “down time”
Isoceteth-20, creates more uniform peeling while controlling penetration of salicylic acid, and reduceing skin irritation associated with the stronger chemical peels without diminishing peeling effect
CLINICAL STUDY:
A recent clinical study of female subjects, aged 23-62 years, with mild to moderate facial photoaging, melasma, hyperpigmentation, or mild acne receiving three consecutive peels (once every four weeks) discovered the following results:
80% felt it improved evenness of skin tone and appearance of age spots and pigmentation
85% felt it made skin look healthier and more youthful
90% felt it improved smoothness of skin
90% felt it improved overall condition of skin
Vitalize Peel
Blend of Salicyclic Acid, Resorcinol, Lactic Acid, Panthenol, Isoceteth-20 and Retinoic acid.
Vitalize Peel helps fight the effects of time, sun damage, and environmental assaults. This powerful yet non-damaging peel can take years off aging skin.
Addresses various skin conditions, such as acne, pigmentation abnormalities, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, melasma, and photodamage
Effective (achieve visible improvement after one treatment, significant results after a series of treatments)
Can be customized for the treatment of each specific condition
May be performed on Skin types I- VI
Little or no or down time
Peeling solution combined with Retinoic acid creates more exfoliation than other chemical peels same depth
Well tolerated (minimum or no burning)
Illuminize Peel
This non-invasive very superficial chemical peel utilizes a novel approach to chemical peeling with a newer generation of alpha-hydroxy acids (mandelic acid and malic acid) in combination with phytic acid and commonly used peeling agents (salicylic acid and resorcinol) to maximize skin rejuvenating effects with low irritation.
Increase skin glow and radiance
Tightens the skin and restores a more youthful appearance
Improves clarity, color and skin texture
Patients achieve enhancement of skin appearance with minimal downtime and discomfort
Appropriate for first-time chemical peel patients or patients looking for a gentle, very superficial peel
May be performed on Skin types I- VI
Little or no visible peeling
Paradise Valley Skin Klinic offers all of the Skin Medica Peels as well as Skin Medica products.
Call to schedule a treatment or consultation. 480 421-1701
www.shapiroplastic surgery.com
You can follow Paradise Valley Skin Klinic on facebook.
Thank you for visiting Best of Both Worlds Az.
You can follow us on facebook, twitter and on our blog site.
www.bestofbothworldsaz.com
Kim Cattrall’s character Samantha, has a chemical peel in a memorable episode of Sex in The City. Unfortunate timing left her with a dark and peeling face the day of Carries Launch Party. It looks as if she had a medium – deep peel. If she were better informed she could have timed her peel so that she looked as gorgeous as usual for her event or just opted for a more superficial peel. Now in her mid-fifty’s, Kim Cattrall looks amazing, I would not be surprised if she has chemical peels to maintain her skin.
Action and Benefits of Chemical Peels
Chemical peeling is used to improve the skin’s appearance by applying a chemical solution to the skin, causing the top layers of skin to separate and peel off. The new skin is smoother, less wrinkled, more even in color, peels can also be used to improve acne. Chemical peels can be performed at different depths, depending on the layer of correction desired. Deeper peels will cause the skin to peel for a longer period of time and provide more improvements in the skin. There are also a variety of acids and peeling agents that can be used alone or together, depending on skin conditions to be treated.
Chemical exfoliation and peels involve using destructive chemical agents to create a controlled wound.
All peels (whether they are chemical or laser) create a mild burn. They improve skin by the wound healing process, new tissue is created and damaged tissue is quickly replaced. Chemical peels stimulate the fibroblasts wound healing activity, the proliferation of fibroblast activity increases collagen and elastin. The depth of the wound determines the amount and intensity of healing. The body’s response to the burn is what yields the results, a deeper peel will result in more correction.
The terms exfoliation and chemical peel are often used interchangeably, however superficial peels are technically exfoliation not a true peel. True chemical peels are generally performed under medical supervision, and penetrate into the papillary dermis.
Chemical exfoliation and peels are a way to speed up the natural migration process of skin cells. When the bonds between cells are dissolved and epidermal cells begin to shed more rapidly. The shedding skin cells send signals for more cell division, which in turn forces keratinocytes to the top of the stratum corneum. This process helps treat acne, fade skin discoloration and leave the skin with a fresh new layer of skin on the surface.
*Dark skin types are more prone to complications such as hyperpigmentation and should go to a professional that is experienced in treating dark skin.
[ Read: Chemical Peel Do’s and Don’ts ]
Skin Layers
Epidermis (Epidermal layers)
Stratum corneum horny layer
Stratum lucidum horny layer – only present on palms of hands, soles of feet
Stratum granulosum horny layer
Stratum spinosum basal layer
Stratum mucosum basal layer
Stratum germinativum / basal layer
Dermis ( Dermal layers)
Papillary dermis
Immediate reticular dermis
upper reticular dermis
mid dermis
lower reticular dermis
Hypodermis/Subcutaneous Tissue
Adipose Tissue ( fatty tissue)
Epidermis
The epidermis is completely cellular, meaning it is in a constant cycle of producing new cells while older dead skin cells are pushed to the surface to exfoliate or slough off. The epidermis is made up of keratinocytes, lymphocytes, melanocytes, Langerhans cells and Merkel cells. Approximately 80% -90% of the cells in the epidermis are keratinocytes, with all others interspersed among them.
Dermis
The dermis is a layer of connective tissue, composed mainly of collagen fibers as well as about 5% elastin. The Dermis is subdivided into the superficial papillary dermis and the reticular dermis. The papillary dermis is a thin layer of connective tissue fibers, the reticular dermis is thicker and contains collagen and elastin fibers.
Collagen constitutes 75% of dry skin weight, giving the skin volume. Fibroblast cells lie among collagen fibers and are known to synthesize (produce) collagen. Fully mature collagen fibers have a low turnover rate. Elastin fibers maintain tension in the skin and provide elasticity ( snap back after being stretched). Metabolic turnover for elastin fibers are very slow and only make up about 2% – 4% of dermal volume. Damage or alterations to the elastin fibers network cause skin to become loose, saggy and wrinkled. Fibroblasts are responsible for producing collagen, elastic fibers, and the ground substance of the dermis. Fibroblasts also control the turnover of connective tissue, unfortunately with age they become smaller and less active.
Understanding the depth of a chemical peel
With chemical peels, the depth is determined by the agent used, concentration of agent, and time applied. {click to view photo’s of peeling}
Very Superficial
Penetrates to Stratum Corneum, Peeling is complete in 0-3 days. Very superficial peels can usually be done as often as once a week. This type of “peel”, generally produces little to no peeling and is ideal for anyone that can’t afford any downtime.
[ Chemical Peels: Superficial Peels Create Little To No Peeling ]
Superficial
Penetrates between the stratum granulsome and stratum germinativum basal layer of epidermis. Peeling is complete in 3-7 days, superficial peels can usually be repeated in 4 weeks. Ideal for most skin types including acne prone skin. This is the most common form of chemical peel performed by estheticians. There isn’t any true “down time” with superficial peels, only what is referred to as “social down time”. You can generally continue normal activities including work, however superficial peels should be done a week before any special events. You can expect to be slightly red or bronzed and have a few days of superficial peeling. On day 1 and 2 skin is slightly red or bronzed, skin starts to peel around day 3 and continues to peel for 2-3 days, may have minimal areas of superficial peeling on day 7. You may be red or pink first few days after peel.
Medium
Penetrates papillary dermis, performed under medical supervision. Peeling is completed in 7-8 days, medium depth peels can be repeated as soon as 6-8 weeks, however it isn’t usually necessary. Peeling skin will be darker and thicker with medium peels vs. superficial peels. Skin will start to darken on day 2 or 3, slight peeling around mouth on day 3, skin will continue to peel until day 7 or 8, starting around mucus membrane ( eyes, nose , mouth) and the forehead usually peels last. Toward end of peel you may just have slight peeling in the hairline. Often times you look okay the first 2 days and last 2 days, it is day 3- 6 that look bad. Exfoliating products and treatment need to be avoided for at least six weeks after a medium depth peel. You can start to see complications at this level, skin should be precondition before peel, especially for darker skin types. Should not be performed on skin with active acne. Follow post treatment instructions to avoid complications. Treats: skin discolorations, epidermal melasma, skin roughness, large pores, fine lines. If peel is medium – deep you may see improvement in stretchable scars and wrinkles. The “Standard Obgai Blue Peel” is a medium depth peel.
Deep
Penatrates to Intermediate Reticular Dermis (IRD). Peeling is completed in 8-10 days. Must be performed under medical supervision. Skin should be preconditioned in advance, and skin should not have any active acne. Following proper post treatment care is important, to prevent complications. This level of peel can be done with phenol, however TCA and lasers have largely replaced phenol peels. This treats: lines, wrinkles, deep melasma, and some scars, The” Designed Blue Peel” is a deep peel. With deep peels the skin will start to darken very quickly and may not start peeling until day 4 or 5, peeling skin will look very dark and thick almost like a thin scab. It is important that you do not assist the peel by picking or pulling skin off, loose peeling skin should be cut of with small sterile scissors to prevent inadvertently removing skin prematurely.
Very Deep
Penetrates upper to mid reticular dermis. Peeling takes up to 3 weeks.
Special training is required, done by a physician. Lasers have largely replaced very deep peels.
Acids and Chemical Peeling Agents
Chemical peels use several types of acid solutions to improve and smooth the texture of skin. Acids come in different strengths and can be used individually, combined or layered. A variety of acid compounds can be used. There are many branded peels, however an experienced esthetician can also create custom peels.
CO2 (cryogen therapy)
Cryotherapy, also called Co2 slush or acne slush, has been used in dermatology for over a quarter of a century. Co2 slush is created at the time of treatment, liquid Co2 is made into a “snow” ball and wrapped in gauze or cheese cloth and then dipped into acetone. The “slush” is the lightly swiped over the treated areas. Cryogenic “slush” can cause mild exfoliation and has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory abilities. Cryogen therapy is added to some superficial peels at the end of treatment
Also known as: Dry ice treatment, acetone slush and slush peel
Glycolic acid
AHA (alpha hydroxy acid), AHA’s are water soluable. Glycolic acid is formulated from sugar cane, and has the smallest AHA molecule, giving it great penetration ability and softening ability. Glycolic acid works by loosening up the horny layer and exfoliating the superficial top layer, also stimulates collagen growth. Needs to be neutralized to stop action, and can cause irritation.
Lactic Acid
AHA, derived from sour milk and bilberries, mild action, often used in conjunction with other acids.
Malic Acid
AHA, derived from apples, mildly invasive peel It can open up the pores, allow the pores to expel their sebum and reduce acne.
Tartaric Acid
AHA, derived from grapes, mildly invasive, similar benefits to other AHA’s
Salicylic acid
BHA (beta hydroxy acid), derived from wintergreen and birch bark. Differs from AHA’s, because it is oil soluble and penetrates the lipid plug in a congested follicle. Salicylic acid is also less irritating than glycolic acid and doesn’t alter skin barrier properties. Has antimicrobial properties.
Retinoic Acid
derived from retinoids; which is denatured vitamin A. It is chemically similar to Retin-A. It is a deeper peel than the Beta Acid peel and is used to remove scars as well as wrinkles and pigmentation problems. It is usually performed in conjunction with other acids to a cause peeling at a deeper level.
Resorcinol
A dihydroxy phenol produced from resins. Used externally resorcinol is an antiseptic and disinfectant, and is used in ointments in the treatment of chronic skin diseases such as psoriasis, and eczema. Resorcinol has been used as a peeling agent as far back as 1800 in strengths up to 30%, the problem with high concentrations of resorcinol is it’s corrosive ability and tenancy to depigment. Currently it is used at low concentrations in chemical peel compounds such as Jessner’s Peels.
TCA (Trichloroacetic acid)
TCA is a chemical cauterant, an agent that coagulates skin proteins. TCA can be used in different strengths and has the ability to penetrate past the papillary dermis and should be used with caution. TCA in concentrations less than 25% can be used in superficial peels. Medium depth peels are achieved with 30-40% TCA, and 50% TCA should only be used by a physician to achieve a deep peel and has greater chance for complication. TCA is used in the Obagi Blu Peels.
Phenol
Phenol is a very strong and toxic chemical, phenol peels require general anesthetic and heart monitoring. Lasers and TCA have largely replaced deep phenol peels, however low concentrations are often added to superficial and medium depth peels.
The Medical Estheticians at Shapiro Plastic Surgery, Paradise Valley Skin Klinic are experienced with chemical peels at all levels.
Call to schedule a treatment or consultation.
480 421-1701
www.shapiroplasticsurgery.com
You can follow Paradise Valley Skin Klinic on facebook
Thank you for visiting Best of Both Worlds Az.
You can follow us on facebook, twitter and on our blog site.
www.bestofbothworldsaz.com
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