Posts Tagged ‘Obagi’
The Obagi Blue Peel improves hyper pigmentation, fine lines, wrinkles, large pores, laxity, skin texture and acne scars.
The Obagi Blue Peel is a unique procedure designed to precisely control the depth of a TCA chemical peel. The Blue Peel uses Trichloroacetic acid (TCA) as the active ingredient and a patented Blue Base with built in safeguards. The TCA and blue peel solution is prepared at a fixed concentration and applied in a “coating system”. The Blue base gives the skin professional more control over the peel by slowing the penatratation of the TCA solution and making it easier to recognize desired endpoints. The coating system helps monitor and control the depth of the peel.
The Obagi Nu Derm system and Obagi Blue Peel are designed to work together. The Obagi Nu-Derm system is used before the peel to precondition skin and as a post treatment protocol. Pre-conditioning prepares skin by correcting and stimulating normal skin function to speed healing. The amount of time for preconditioning is determined by the skin type and condition, usually a minimum of 6 weeks. Post-treatment promotes shorter recovery time, aids in resolution of erythema (redness) and post- inflammatory hyperpigmentation. I will not do a Blue Peel on anyone who has not preconditioned, post treatment care is also not optional.
The Obagi Blue Peel is not something you just schedule and show up for, it requires a little planning and preparation. A consultation is required before scheduling a Blue Peel to determine the depth of the peel needed to achieve desired results. In some cases a Blue Peel may not be your best option or additional treatments may be needed, so other treatment possibilities may be discussed. You will also need to begin a skin care regimen with the Obagi Nu-Derm system, a minimum of 6 weeks prior to your peel. During the consultation you will discuss the length and amount of peeling to expect with your peel , so that you can plan your schedule accordingly. The price of the Blue Peel varies depending on the depth of the peel, however even in the deepest Blue Peel is only a fraction of the cost of many laser treatments. ( The Blue Peel is amazing when combined with fillers and Botox. Think Chemical Facelift!)
Depth of Obagi Blue Peel
The Obagi Blue Peel can be performed at different levels or depths, depending on the desired results. The Obagi Blue peel uses a coating system as a way of preparing and controlling the depth of the peel. People often get confused by the term “coat”. When we say coats we are not referring to how many times the peel is painted on the face, a coat refers to a specific volume of a prepared solution. The blue peel uses a 30% TCA and a patented blue base that is prepared in either a 15% or 20% solution. It is important to understand that 2 coats of a 15% solution is not the equivalent of 2 coats of a 20% solution. A Blue peel solution of 20% is also not the equivalent of a plain 20% TCA. When considering a Blue Peel try not to confuse your self with the coat system and the concentration of the prepared solution, instead focus on the depth of the peel needed to achieve specific results.
[ Chemical Peels 101: skin anatomy, chemical peels, and peeling agents ]
Light Exfoliation: Peeling is complete in 2-3 days.
This is commonly referred to as a 1 coat peel
- Penetrates the stratum corneum layer of the skin.
- Provide light exfoliation to freshen the skin
- Unclogs pores and reduces comedones
Deep Exfoliation: Peeling is complete in 4-7 days.
This is commonly referred to as a 2 coat peel.
- Penetrates to the basal layer of the skin.
- Temporary improvement of superficial hyper-pigmentation
- Enhances results of the Nu-derm system
Standard Blue Peel: Peeling is complete in 7-9 days.
This is commonly referred to as a three coat peel.
- Penetrates the papillary dermis layer of the skin.
- Treats hyper-pigmentation Brown spots and Melasma
- Improves skin texture, reducing roughness
- Tightens large pores
Designed Blue Peel: Peeling is complete in 9-14 days.
This is commonly referred to as a 4 coat peel.
- Penetrates to the reticular dermis layer of the skin.
- Treats hyper-pigmentation Brown spots and Melasma
- Improves skin texture, reducing roughness
- Tightens large pores
- Skin laxity, fine lines, “stretchable” wrinkles and scars.
*Immediate reticular dermis (IRD) is the area where the papillary dermis meets the upper reticular dermis.
Pre-conditioning before the Obagi Blue Peel
Skin should be conditioned before a Blue Peel, this is done by using the full Obagi Nu Derm system along with a topical tretinoin (Retin-A). Conditioning the skin prior to the peel will enhance results and reduce complications. Pre-conditioning prepares skin by correcting and stimulating normal skin function to speed healing. The Obagi Nu Derm is a complete system and should be used as such. It is not recommended to eliminate or substitute the skin products in the Obagi System. Your skin health professional will give you a specific protocol that is appropriate for your skin. You will be instructed when and how to use each product as well as how to measure the recommended amount of each product. You will also be shown how manage reactions and how to modify your protocol to fit your lifestyle.
Obagi Medical skin care products are prescription strength, and available only through a physician’s office.The products in this system should be used with the same respect and diligence as any prescribed drug. You should only use Obagi products that you have received directly from your skin care professional, under a doctors supervision. Products sold by unauthorized distributers or online may be counterfeit, expired or degraded in quality. This can lead to reduced results and complications. When you purchase Nu-derm products from anyone other than your personal skin care professional, they are unable to calculate if you are using your creams correctly or guarantee efficacy of the products, consequently the results of your treatment can not be assured.
[ Obagi Nu-Derm: Restore Skin Health ]
Post- treatment after the Obagi Blue Peel
The Peel Stage
The peeling stage is 3-14 days depending on depth of peel.
The amount of peeling will depend on the level of peel. Skin will generally begin to darken on the 3rd day and peeling will begin on day 3 or 4, depending on depth of peel. Peeling begins around eyes, nose and mouth. With a standard or designed blue peel, days 4-6 will appear the worst. The peeling stage is not painful, but the skin will feel tight and dry. Follow all post treatment instructions. NO PICKING! It is extremely important that you do not assist the peel, treat the skin like you are trying to keep it on. Do not pick, pull or remove skin. Complications can occur if skin is peeled off prematurely.
During the peeling stage you will be instructed to follow specific post treatment instructions. This will include using a gentle cleanser and mild topical creams designed by Dr Obagi to be used after a Blue peel. If you have had a deeper peel you may be instructed to use an astringent solution compress. Sun exposure should be avoided after the peel. Chemical sunblocks and makeup can not be used, however you may be able to use an “approved” mineral makeup which will provide a little sun protection. I usually recommend Jane Iredale mineral makeup.
[ Chemical Peels: Post Treatment Care and Instructions ]
Recovery Stage
The recovery stage begins when peeling is complete and lasts 1-6 weeks, depending on depth of peel. When the peeling is complete, skin will look good and will continue to improve as it heels. Skin may look a little pink or red and it is not un usual to see an acne flare-up. After peeling is complete it is important to resume Obagi Nu-derm system as instructed to enhance results and reduce the probability of post inflammatory pigmentation.
Return to Normal
Skin will return to normal when the recovery stage is complete. Results of the procedure can be evaluated at this point and you will resume Obagi Nu-Derm system under the normal protocol. It is important to not discontinue Nu-Derm system prematurely. You will continue on a normal Obagi Nu Derm protocol until advised to begin a maintenance protocol, usually 6-12 weeks. This will depend on how aggressive your nu-derm protocol is, the condition of your skin and desired results.
Maintenance
When skin has been corrected and has returned to a normal healthy state a maintenance protocol will be designed to help you maintain your results. Your skin health professional will instruct you when to begin a maintenance protocol, this is usually.
The content provide in this post is intended to be informative and does not replace medical or professional treatment.
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Melasma (chloasma) is hyperpigmentation or dark, irregular patches commonly found on the upper cheeks, nose, upper lip, and forehead. The patches can develop gradually over time or during pregnancy. Melasma can also develop when taking oral contraceptives or hormone replacement therapy medications. Melasma is thought to be stimulated by hormones, however exactly which hormones are involved has yet to be determined. The most important factor in the development of melasma is sun exposure,and without the strict avoidance of sun exposure, treatments for melasma are likely to be unsuccessful. Melasma can be permanent or disappear and reappear with each pregnancy.
Hyperpigmentation is the term used to describe any type of abnormal dark area of the skin, this includes melasma, freckles and sun spots. When we treat hyperpigmentation in the skin, it is important to understand that the melanocyte is not functioning properly, so it overproduces melanosomes and the excess melanin can not be evenly distributed among the keratinocytys. As the cells rise to the surface of the skin they cause over pigmented or dark spots. When the skin is exfoliated with AHA’s, chemical peels or microdermabrasion, the hyperpigmentation will appear lighter because some of the top layers of skin have been removed and the pigment is less dense (temporarily). The pigment is still there, it is just appears lighter and the melanocyte is still not functioning properlly, so in a few weeks as the top skin layers are replaced the pigment will appear dark again. Tanning will also further stimulate the melanocyte causing darker pigmentation to develop and Melasma will become worse. Hydroquinone works to suppress the melanocyte and is an excellent way to treat the pregnancy mask. For best results Hydroquinone can be used in conjunction with exfoliating treatments. I understand this description may be a little difficult to understand, so if I have lost you, you can come in for a consultation and I will use visual aids to better explain the cause and treatment for hyperpigmentation.
Melasma: My Personal Story
I have Melasma myself, on my upper cheeks and forehead. I first developed Melasma patches on my upper cheeks in my late twenties and later after giving birth to my second child I developed another large patch in the center of my forehead. I have successfully treated my Melasma, but I need to continue to maintain my skin so that it doesn’t come back. As a Medical Esthetician, I obviously have access to the best skin care products and treatments available. I can share both my professional and personal experience with treating Melasma. Using hydroquinone, and broad spectrum sunblock is absolutely necessary for treating and controlling Melasma. Even after successful correction of Melasma, the hyperpigmentation can reappear especially after sun exposure.
My Personal Skin Regimen
Topical Products
My personal skin regimen includes using the Obagi Nu-Derm system, with a 1/2 gram of Clear (4% hydroquinone) AM and PM. Initially I used a 1/2 gram of a .1% tretinoin ( Retin-A) every night, however I am now on a maintenance protocol and only use tretinoin occasionally. I also use a topical vitamin C and a broad spectrum sunblock containing Zinc oxide. I top it off with Jane Iredale mineral makeup SPF 20.
Professional Skin Treatments
I have had an Obagi Blue Peel, and Fraxel treatments. I personally felt I had better results with the Blue Peel. Fractional laser resurfacing and Blue Peels are ideal when treating deep or resistant Melasma.
Although I have corrected my Melasma, I still need to continue to maintain my skin to keep the Melasma under control. In addition to the topical products I previously mentioned, I try to have a light chemical peel every 4-6 weeks. The chemical peel I have found that gives me the best results treating pigmentation, is a custom chemical peel.
Obagi Nu-Derm System
This is correction after using the Obagi Nu-Derm System. This is a prescription strength skin system and is only available at medical skin clinics. Treatment protocols vary depending on skin type and condition.
Obagi Blue Peel
This is an example of deeply pigmented Melasma.
After treatment with Obagi Nu- Derm & Obagi Blue Peel
It is important to precondition with the Obagi Nu-Derm System and Retin-A before having a Blue Peel. I recommend preconditioning for a minimum of 6 weeks or longer depending on how aggressively Tretinoin is used. Patients that are better preconditioned get a better result. It is also necessary to continue to use the creams after peel to prevent Hyperpigmentation & to maintain healthy skin.
Custom Chemical Peel for Melasma
The Custom Chemical Peel I use is a light peel that can be repeated as often as every 4-6 weeks, compared to the Obagi Blue Peel which is a deeper peel necessary for treating deeper pigmentation. I have decided to not include details of my protocol for this custom peel. It is proprietary information that I don’t wish to share with others in the industry. If you would like to learn more, you can schedule a private consultation. I can tell you that with this peel, I will usually get light peeling for 2-3 days. The peeling is minimal and I would not consider there to be any “down-time”, you can still go about your regular routine. You just don’t want to schedule a peel less than a week before any major event like a wedding. I make it a point to work with my clients and their social calendar, so that they look their best for any events.
Get Professional Treatment For Melasma
If you have Melasma call to schedule a free consultation at
Paradise Valley Skin Klinic.
480 421-1701
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Answer these Questions to find out how much your habits and life style have aged your skin.
I wanted to share this quiz, compliments of Obagi Systems.
How old are you ?………………………………………………………………………………………………. _______
Do you have any permanent facial brown spots or broken blood vessels ?
( If yes, add 2)……………………………………………………………………………………………………. _______
Are there noticeable lines around your eyes or lips ?
( If yes, add 3)…………………………………………………………………………………………………….. _______
Do you have deep creases on forehead or cheeks ?
( If yes, add 5)……………………………………………………………………………………………………… _______
Have you or do you still tan at least twice a week ?
( If yes, with sunscreen add 5)
( If yes, without sunscreen add 10 )……………………………………………………………………….. _______
Has your face suffered at least 3 severe sunburns, complete with peeling ?
( If yes, add 5) ………………………………………………………………………………………………….. _______
Do you smoke ?
( If yes, add 3) …………………………………………………………………………………………………. _______
Do you drink at least 5 or more alcoholic beverages a week ?
( If yes, add 2) …………………………………………………………………………………………………… _______
Do you work out at least 3 times a week ?
( If yes, subtract 1) …………………………………………………………………………………………….. _______
Do you have at least three servings of fruit and vegetables a day ?
( If yes, subtract 1) ……………………………………………………………………………………………. _______
Do you use an SPF of 15 or more daily?
( If yes, subtract 4) ……………………………………………………………………………………………. _______
Do you use topical antioxidants as part of your daily routine?
( If yes, subtract 1) ……………………………………………………………………………………………. _______
Do you use prescription lotions (such as hydroquinone or tretinoin) at least once a week ?
( If yes, subtract 3 ) ……………………………………………………………………………………………… _______
The total is your skin’s age. …………………………………………………………………………………… _______
Best of Both Worlds AZ will continue to educate
and share tips, for healthier, younger skin.
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The use of topical antioxidants can help prevent wrinkles, reduce hyperpigmentation (sun spots), and improve skin tone. Topical antioxidants are available in many serums and moisturizer, formulations are available with a variety of antioxidants and strengths.
How Do Topical Antioxidants Work?
A free radical is any atom or molecule that is missing an electron from it’s outer shell, so it attacks an other molecule and steels an electron. The molecule that has been attacked by a free radicle, is now missing an electron and has become another free radical. This creates a chain reaction. Antioxidants stop the chain reaction, by giving an electron to the free radical.
Click to learn more about free radicals and antioxidants
Topical antioxidant stop the chain of reaction caused by free radicals. Free radicals are damaging to the skin and can accelerate extrinsic aging. Although some topical antioxidants are purely antioxidants, some have additional actions.
Topical antioxidants also help protect the skin from UV damage. Human studies have demonstrated protective effects of antioxidants when applied topically before ultraviolet radiation exposure. Antioxidants don’t work the same way that sunblocks do, so you still need a daily SPF. Sunblocks absorb or reflect out UV radiation and antioxidants neutralize the UV rays. Photoprotective topical antioxidants work by the inhibiting the UV-induced biochemical changes that lead to photoageing and DNA mutations.
Vitamin C is currently the most recognized topical antioxidant, however it works synergistically with other antioxidants such as vitamin E. There isn’t any one antioxidant that is effective on all free radicals, you need a variety of antioxidants. Each has a unique set of chemical behaviors and biological properties. Antioxidants work together as part of a network, and no single antioxidant can do the work a group. Some antioxidants may excel at fighting certain types of free radicals, or only work in certain parts of a cell. However, when it comes to topical antioxidants, there are some that are more stable and are better absorbed by the skin.
Types Of Topical Antioxidants
Vitamin C (L-ascorbic)
There are many derivatives vitamin C, however they don’t penetrate well. Look for products that contain L-ascorbic acid. Topical Vitamin C is the most popular topical antioxidant, and for good reason. In fact the benefits are so great, I will need to write an entire post devoted to topical vitamin C.
- Potent antioxidant
- Vitamin C is nessacerry to produce collagen
- Protects skin from both UVA and UVB, by neutralizing the UV rays.
- Can reduce sun – induced pigmentation, due to tyrosinase inhibitor function
- Anti- inflammatory qualities
Retinol ( Derived from Vitamin A )
- promotes healing
- promotes collagen synthesis, and inhibits cellular degeneration
- also increases epidermal thickness, and an emollient
Vitamin B3 ( Niacinamide)
- essential for cellular metabolism
- increases microcirculation
Vitamin E (Alpha Tocopherol)
When choosing a topical vitamin E product, look for a-tocopherol. Vitamin E derivatives such as (tocopherol acetate) are common in cosmetic ingredients, and although they are good as a moisturizing ingredient, they are not antioxidants.
- Protects cell membranes and lipid structures from free radical attack.
- Vitamin E is regenerated when it is in the presence of Vitamin C.
- Vitamin E doubled the UV protection in the skin when added to vitamin C.
- Inhibits the immunosuppression and tumorigenesis induced by ultraviolet radiation.
- Vitamin C can not scavenge lipo-philic radicals directly within the lipid phase, however vitamin C works synergistically with a- tocopherol to reduce lipid peroxide radicals.
Ferulic Acid
- a plant antioxidant
- Increases L-ascorbic acid ( vitamin C) stability.
- synergistic with other antioxidants, specifically vitamin C and E.
Phloretin
A potent antioxidant derived from apples and root bark of fruit trees with a broad range of activity.
-Anticancer
- Anti- inflammatory
- Accelerates cell renewal
- Pigment inhibitor
- Enhances product penetration
Zinc Sulfate
- has wound healing and anti-inflammatory ability’s
- UVB protection
Bioflavonoids
Bioflavonoids are a group of substances that are potent antioxidants, many have anti-inflammatory ability and help protect from UV damage.
Centella Asiatica (Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, Madecassic Acid)
- promotes collagen synthesis, and inhibits cellular degeneration
- increases microcirculation
Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract ( Green Tea Extract)
- protects cell from oxidative stress
- increases microcirculation in the cell
Alpha Lipoic Acid (ALA)
-Alpha-lipoic acid is an antioxidant that is found in food and is made by the body. It is found in every cell, where it helps turn glucose into energy.
- ALA is both fat- and water-soluble.
Idebenone
Idebenone is a synthetic analog of coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10). CoQ10 is a vitamin-like natural compound found naturally in the body, that plays a pivotal role in the cellular energy production and as an antioxidant. Idebenone is closely related to CoQ10, however it is more water-soluble. Idebenone has been known as a pharmaceutical agent since the 1980′s, before it became popular as a skin care ingredient.
There are claims that idebenone is the most powerful topical antioxidant available, based on it’s EPF® rating. I have not been able to confirm that an “EPF” rating is an actual recognized rating, or verify the strength of antioxidants that were used in the EPF study. There are also studies that show that idebenone, offers less photoprotective value compared to topical vitamin C. I would like to find an independent study that compares L-ascorbic acid 20% to Idebenone 1%, until then it is hard to say which is truly the stronger antioxidant. Personally, I alternate between an Idebenone product and a topical vitamin C serum.
Topical Antioxidant Products
Skin Ceuticals Phloretin CF®
Phloretin (2%), vitamin C ( 10% L- ascorbic acid ) and ferulic acid (.5%)
Skin Ceuticals C E Ferulic®
Vitamin C (15% L-ascorbic acid), Vitamin E (1% alpha tocopherol), and ferulic acid (.5%)
Ferulic acid doubles the synergistic benefits of the vitamins C+E.
Skin Ceuticals Serum 20
Available in four concentrations of L -ascorbic acid. 20%,15%,10% and a 5% Eye gel.
All are formulated with ferulic acid to enhance antioxidant performance.
Obagi C-RX- Clarifying Serum
First and only 4% hydroquinone, vitamin C ( 10% L-ascorbic acid)
Obagi Professional-C Serums
Available in four concentrations of L-ascorbic acid .
20% Highest concentration of L-ascorbic acid
15% All skin types
10% Dry, sensitive or reactive skin
5% Protection for the sensitive eye area
Is Clinical Pro Heal Advanced Serum+
New time-released L ascorbic acid (in a 15 percent concentration) plus Copper Tripeptide Growth Factor maximize performance
Zinc Sulfate, Vitamin E ( Alpha Tocopherol), Retinol, Soluble Bioflavonoids
Olea Europea (olive leaf extract)- Synergistic with vitamins C and E, also antibiotic, anti-acneic, anti-inflammatory.
Mushroom Extract (a source of Kojic acid) – natural lightening to even pigment, antibacterial
Arbutin – corrects abnormal pigmentation by inhibiting tyrosinase enzyme.
IS Clinical Super Serum Advance+
New time-released L ascorbic acid (in a 15 percent concentration) plus Copper Tripeptide Growth Factor maximize performance.
Zinc Sulfate, Centella Asiatica
Pentapeptide Amino Acids – protein building blocks, increases cellular metabolism and integrity.
Mushroom Extract (a source of Kojic acid) – natural lightening to even pigment, antibacterial
Prevage MD (Idebenone 1% )
Prevage MD, is only available from a physician, and is (.1% Idebenone) compared to Prevage that is only (.05% idebenone)
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After Obagi Most Women Go Naked
The Obagi Nu-Derm® system is the world’s #1 professional skincare program, used by more than 11,000 physicians throughout the world. It is the most effective treatment for skin health restoration, correcting complex problems such as acne, melasma (brown spots), fine lines, wrinkles, and scars.
The Obagi Nu-Derm System contains prescription-strength formulations that can only be sold through a licensed physician, such as a dermatologist or plastic surgeon.
*Take a moment to watch the Obagi video at the end of this post.
The goal of the Obagi Nu-Derm system is to create soft, radiant- looking skin, increase skin tolerance and restore normal skin functions. The problem is, it only works if you use it. It works even better when you use it correctly. Dr Zein Obagi created the Obagi Nu-Derm as a skin health restoration system, and the products are designed to be used together. Each of the products are good individually, but if you don’t use the full system, you will not see the amazing results that Obagi is famous for.
- Increase smoothness
- Reduce pore size
- Improve elasticity
- Normalize oil production
- Increase skins own ability to hold moisture
- Increase skin tolerance to all external factors
- Generate a balanced, even skin tone
- Reduce hyperpigmentation ( freckles, age spots, melasma, Post inflammatory hyperpigmentation )
I have worked professionally with the Obagi products for over 10 years, and have had “literally” thousands of clients on the Nu -Derm system. The results shown in the before and after photo’s are typical and common. If you use the Obagi system correctly you will experience skin transformation. Using a specific dose and frequency that’s recommended specifically by your skin care professional for your skin condition, the prescription-strength system exfoliates old skin leaving healthy, new skin that looks and acts younger and healthier. The products in the Nu-Derm System are clinically proven, prescription-strength, ingredients that work to improve your skin cell function, compared to retail products that contain more cosmetic-based ingredients.
Obagi System: Steps 1-6
All of the products are labeled AM, PM or both AM/PM and numbered 1-6 in the order you would use them. The lines between the letters in the word OBAGI are designed as a tool to measure product. For example from the O-A = 1/2 gram ( thick like toothpaste).
Step #1 Cleanser AM/PM
Foaming Gel – For Normal/Oily Skin or Gentle Cleanser – For Normal/Dry Skin
Proper cleansing is necessary
Step #2 Toner AM/PM
Adjusts the pH of the skin for increased penetration of the system ingredients.
Step #3 Clear AM/PM
A topical prescription treatment that includes 4% hydroquinone to correct hyperpigmentation (discoloration) and improve and even skin tone.
Step #4 Exfoderm or Exfoderm Forte AM
Exfoderm – For Normal/Dry Skin
A plant acid (3% phytic acid) that removes old skin cells while promoting new skin cells for a lighter, brighter complexion.
Exfoderm® Forte – For Normal/Oily Skin
An alpha hydroxy acid (6% glycolic acid, 4% lactic acid) that removes old skin cells while promoting new skin cells for a lighter, brighter, firmer complexion for skin that needs deeper exfoliation.
Step #5 Bleander & Tretinoin PM (mixed as prescribed)
This step restores damage to the deeper layers of the skin. It restores skin elasticity by enhancing the production of collagen and elastin.
Blender
A topical prescription treatment that contains 4% hydroquinone to target hyperpigmented (discolored) areas of the skin and increase the penetration of the active ingredients of the system.
Tretinoin Cream 0.025%, .05% , or.1% (as prescribed)
A topical prescription, use as directed. *Do not wax skin that is treated with tretinoin.
Step #6 Healthy Skin Protection SPF 35 AM
A sunscreen with 9% micronized zinc oxide and 7.5% octinoxate that helps to protect newly transformed, younger looking skin and prevents further sun damage. This is a physical/chemical sunscreen with UVA/UVB protection.
Reaction
If you just want to FEEL good you should get a spa treatment. If you want to LOOK good, then follow the recommended Obagi Nu Derm protocol. Generally, with a more aggressive protocol you will have more reaction, however you will also have more stimulation, see correction faster and build up tolerance more quickly. That doesn’t mean everyone should start out aggressively, individual system protocol is determined by skin type.
Reaction Phase: Out with the Old
Inital correction and stimulation phase
This is the time in which the damaged top layer of skin is replaced by a new layer of healthier cells. It takes about six weeks for ” newborn” cell to reach the surface of the skin and exfoliate.
You WILL experience one or more of the following symptoms:
- Dryness – Itching
- Burning – Redness
- Sensitive skin
- Exfoliation ( flaking and peeling)
These reactions are a sign the skin restoration is in process. The Nu- Derm system is accelerating the skin cell turnover to alter the rough top layer of the skin.
Tolerance Phase: In with the New
Correction and stimulation continues
Your skin has built tolerance , skin improvement is viable. The skin increases the production of collagen and elastin, to diminish wrinkles and reduce pore size.
Correction Phase: Healthy Glow
Finally, your skin enters the last stage and you are ready for a maintenance protocol. Skin tolerance is now complete.
“Begin with the end in mind.” – The 7 Habits of Highly Effective People
Control Reaction
Peeling is more severe in the center of the face and around mucus membranes (eyes, nose and mouth). You can try focusing product use on the forehead and cheeks and blending them in toward the center of the face. Most people notice that the peeling reaction peeks late afternoon-early evening. It is okay to cleanse your face later in the day ( at least 4 or 5 hours later) and reapply sunscreen and makeup. Cleansing the skin can help slough off some of the loose peeling skin. If you have an social event and need to stop reactions, discontinue step 5, four days before event. Obagi Action and Tolereen are “control” products that can be used as needed to relieve surface tightness, itching and dryness. Control products should only be used temporarily, as they slow the skin restoration process. Be sure to discuss options for controlling your reactions with your skin care professional.
Obagi Nu-Derm Action
A moisturizing cream to be used as needed to soothe areas of dry, flaky skin.
Obagi Nu-Derm Tolereen
Contains 0.5% hydrocortisone for the temporary relief of itching and burning associated with minor skin irritations.
Find Obagi neer you. www.obagi.com
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Kim Cattrall’s character Samantha, has a chemical peel in a memorable episode of Sex in The City. Unfortunate timing left her with a dark and peeling face the day of Carries Launch Party. It looks as if she had a medium – deep peel. If she were better informed she could have timed her peel so that she looked as gorgeous as usual for her event or just opted for a more superficial peel. Now in her mid-fifty’s, Kim Cattrall looks amazing, I would not be surprised if she has chemical peels to maintain her skin.
Action and Benefits of Chemical Peels
Chemical peeling is used to improve the skin’s appearance by applying a chemical solution to the skin, causing the top layers of skin to separate and peel off. The new skin is smoother, less wrinkled, more even in color, peels can also be used to improve acne. Chemical peels can be performed at different depths, depending on the layer of correction desired. Deeper peels will cause the skin to peel for a longer period of time and provide more improvements in the skin. There are also a variety of acids and peeling agents that can be used alone or together, depending on skin conditions to be treated.
Chemical exfoliation and peels involve using destructive chemical agents to create a controlled wound.
All peels (whether they are chemical or laser) create a mild burn. They improve skin by the wound healing process, new tissue is created and damaged tissue is quickly replaced. Chemical peels stimulate the fibroblasts wound healing activity, the proliferation of fibroblast activity increases collagen and elastin. The depth of the wound determines the amount and intensity of healing. The body’s response to the burn is what yields the results, a deeper peel will result in more correction.
The terms exfoliation and chemical peel are often used interchangeably, however superficial peels are technically exfoliation not a true peel. True chemical peels are generally performed under medical supervision, and penetrate into the papillary dermis.
Chemical exfoliation and peels are a way to speed up the natural migration process of skin cells. When the bonds between cells are dissolved and epidermal cells begin to shed more rapidly. The shedding skin cells send signals for more cell division, which in turn forces keratinocytes to the top of the stratum corneum. This process helps treat acne, fade skin discoloration and leave the skin with a fresh new layer of skin on the surface.
*Dark skin types are more prone to complications such as hyperpigmentation and should go to a professional that is experienced in treating dark skin.
[ Read: Chemical Peel Do’s and Don’ts ]
Skin Layers
Epidermis (Epidermal layers)
Stratum corneum horny layer
Stratum lucidum horny layer – only present on palms of hands, soles of feet
Stratum granulosum horny layer
Stratum spinosum basal layer
Stratum mucosum basal layer
Stratum germinativum / basal layer
Dermis ( Dermal layers)
Papillary dermis
Immediate reticular dermis
upper reticular dermis
mid dermis
lower reticular dermis
Hypodermis/Subcutaneous Tissue
Adipose Tissue ( fatty tissue)
Epidermis
The epidermis is completely cellular, meaning it is in a constant cycle of producing new cells while older dead skin cells are pushed to the surface to exfoliate or slough off. The epidermis is made up of keratinocytes, lymphocytes, melanocytes, Langerhans cells and Merkel cells. Approximately 80% -90% of the cells in the epidermis are keratinocytes, with all others interspersed among them.
Dermis
The dermis is a layer of connective tissue, composed mainly of collagen fibers as well as about 5% elastin. The Dermis is subdivided into the superficial papillary dermis and the reticular dermis. The papillary dermis is a thin layer of connective tissue fibers, the reticular dermis is thicker and contains collagen and elastin fibers.
Collagen constitutes 75% of dry skin weight, giving the skin volume. Fibroblast cells lie among collagen fibers and are known to synthesize (produce) collagen. Fully mature collagen fibers have a low turnover rate. Elastin fibers maintain tension in the skin and provide elasticity ( snap back after being stretched). Metabolic turnover for elastin fibers are very slow and only make up about 2% – 4% of dermal volume. Damage or alterations to the elastin fibers network cause skin to become loose, saggy and wrinkled. Fibroblasts are responsible for producing collagen, elastic fibers, and the ground substance of the dermis. Fibroblasts also control the turnover of connective tissue, unfortunately with age they become smaller and less active.
Understanding the depth of a chemical peel
With chemical peels, the depth is determined by the agent used, concentration of agent, and time applied. {click to view photo’s of peeling}
Very Superficial
Penetrates to Stratum Corneum, Peeling is complete in 0-3 days. Very superficial peels can usually be done as often as once a week. This type of “peel”, generally produces little to no peeling and is ideal for anyone that can’t afford any downtime.
[ Chemical Peels: Superficial Peels Create Little To No Peeling ]
Superficial
Penetrates between the stratum granulsome and stratum germinativum basal layer of epidermis. Peeling is complete in 3-7 days, superficial peels can usually be repeated in 4 weeks. Ideal for most skin types including acne prone skin. This is the most common form of chemical peel performed by estheticians. There isn’t any true “down time” with superficial peels, only what is referred to as “social down time”. You can generally continue normal activities including work, however superficial peels should be done a week before any special events. You can expect to be slightly red or bronzed and have a few days of superficial peeling. On day 1 and 2 skin is slightly red or bronzed, skin starts to peel around day 3 and continues to peel for 2-3 days, may have minimal areas of superficial peeling on day 7. You may be red or pink first few days after peel.
Medium
Penetrates papillary dermis, performed under medical supervision. Peeling is completed in 7-8 days, medium depth peels can be repeated as soon as 6-8 weeks, however it isn’t usually necessary. Peeling skin will be darker and thicker with medium peels vs. superficial peels. Skin will start to darken on day 2 or 3, slight peeling around mouth on day 3, skin will continue to peel until day 7 or 8, starting around mucus membrane ( eyes, nose , mouth) and the forehead usually peels last. Toward end of peel you may just have slight peeling in the hairline. Often times you look okay the first 2 days and last 2 days, it is day 3- 6 that look bad. Exfoliating products and treatment need to be avoided for at least six weeks after a medium depth peel. You can start to see complications at this level, skin should be precondition before peel, especially for darker skin types. Should not be performed on skin with active acne. Follow post treatment instructions to avoid complications. Treats: skin discolorations, epidermal melasma, skin roughness, large pores, fine lines. If peel is medium – deep you may see improvement in stretchable scars and wrinkles. The “Standard Obgai Blue Peel” is a medium depth peel.
Deep
Penatrates to Intermediate Reticular Dermis (IRD). Peeling is completed in 8-10 days. Must be performed under medical supervision. Skin should be preconditioned in advance, and skin should not have any active acne. Following proper post treatment care is important, to prevent complications. This level of peel can be done with phenol, however TCA and lasers have largely replaced phenol peels. This treats: lines, wrinkles, deep melasma, and some scars, The” Designed Blue Peel” is a deep peel. With deep peels the skin will start to darken very quickly and may not start peeling until day 4 or 5, peeling skin will look very dark and thick almost like a thin scab. It is important that you do not assist the peel by picking or pulling skin off, loose peeling skin should be cut of with small sterile scissors to prevent inadvertently removing skin prematurely.
Very Deep
Penetrates upper to mid reticular dermis. Peeling takes up to 3 weeks.
Special training is required, done by a physician. Lasers have largely replaced very deep peels.
Acids and Chemical Peeling Agents
Chemical peels use several types of acid solutions to improve and smooth the texture of skin. Acids come in different strengths and can be used individually, combined or layered. A variety of acid compounds can be used. There are many branded peels, however an experienced esthetician can also create custom peels.
CO2 (cryogen therapy)
Cryotherapy, also called Co2 slush or acne slush, has been used in dermatology for over a quarter of a century. Co2 slush is created at the time of treatment, liquid Co2 is made into a “snow” ball and wrapped in gauze or cheese cloth and then dipped into acetone. The “slush” is the lightly swiped over the treated areas. Cryogenic “slush” can cause mild exfoliation and has antibacterial and anti-inflammatory abilities. Cryogen therapy is added to some superficial peels at the end of treatment
Also known as: Dry ice treatment, acetone slush and slush peel
Glycolic acid
AHA (alpha hydroxy acid), AHA’s are water soluable. Glycolic acid is formulated from sugar cane, and has the smallest AHA molecule, giving it great penetration ability and softening ability. Glycolic acid works by loosening up the horny layer and exfoliating the superficial top layer, also stimulates collagen growth. Needs to be neutralized to stop action, and can cause irritation.
Lactic Acid
AHA, derived from sour milk and bilberries, mild action, often used in conjunction with other acids.
Malic Acid
AHA, derived from apples, mildly invasive peel It can open up the pores, allow the pores to expel their sebum and reduce acne.
Tartaric Acid
AHA, derived from grapes, mildly invasive, similar benefits to other AHA’s
Salicylic acid
BHA (beta hydroxy acid), derived from wintergreen and birch bark. Differs from AHA’s, because it is oil soluble and penetrates the lipid plug in a congested follicle. Salicylic acid is also less irritating than glycolic acid and doesn’t alter skin barrier properties. Has antimicrobial properties.
Retinoic Acid
derived from retinoids; which is denatured vitamin A. It is chemically similar to Retin-A. It is a deeper peel than the Beta Acid peel and is used to remove scars as well as wrinkles and pigmentation problems. It is usually performed in conjunction with other acids to a cause peeling at a deeper level.
Resorcinol
A dihydroxy phenol produced from resins. Used externally resorcinol is an antiseptic and disinfectant, and is used in ointments in the treatment of chronic skin diseases such as psoriasis, and eczema. Resorcinol has been used as a peeling agent as far back as 1800 in strengths up to 30%, the problem with high concentrations of resorcinol is it’s corrosive ability and tenancy to depigment. Currently it is used at low concentrations in chemical peel compounds such as Jessner’s Peels.
TCA (Trichloroacetic acid)
TCA is a chemical cauterant, an agent that coagulates skin proteins. TCA can be used in different strengths and has the ability to penetrate past the papillary dermis and should be used with caution. TCA in concentrations less than 25% can be used in superficial peels. Medium depth peels are achieved with 30-40% TCA, and 50% TCA should only be used by a physician to achieve a deep peel and has greater chance for complication. TCA is used in the Obagi Blu Peels.
Phenol
Phenol is a very strong and toxic chemical, phenol peels require general anesthetic and heart monitoring. Lasers and TCA have largely replaced deep phenol peels, however low concentrations are often added to superficial and medium depth peels.
The Medical Estheticians at Shapiro Plastic Surgery, Paradise Valley Skin Klinic are experienced with chemical peels at all levels.
Call to schedule a treatment or consultation.
480 421-1701
www.shapiroplasticsurgery.com
You can follow Paradise Valley Skin Klinic on facebook
Thank you for visiting Best of Both Worlds Az.
You can follow us on facebook, twitter and on our blog site.
www.bestofbothworldsaz.com
Bacne is the slang term for back acne, this condition can be painful and cause scaring. Both men and women get back acne, however it is most severe in teenage boys and athletes. Back acne is sometimes referred to as athletic acne. Tight fitting cloths and athletic gear trap perspiration, allowing P. acne bacteria to proliferate. Steroids can also contribute to acne. Bacne can range from very mild to severe and treatment protocols are designed appropriately. I strongly recommend professional treatment for back acne, as there are acne products that should not be used together or contraindicated for some people.
In-office Treatments
Chemical peels can be customized to treat acne and PIH ( post inflammatory hyperpigmentation) I find that customized peels are a very effective treatment for back acne.
Back facials can include extractions, acne treatment masks, and topical medications.
Microdermabrasion is appropriate for mild to moderate acne, however treating over pustules, cysts and inflamed skin is contraindicated.
Cryotherapy, also called Co2 slush or acne slush, has been used in dermatology for over a quarter of a century. Co2 slush is created at the time of treatment, liquid Co2 is made into a “snow” ball and wrapped in gauze or cheese cloth and then dipped into acetone. The “slush” is the lightly swiped over the treated areas.
Blue Light RF Acne Treatment
The combined energies of elōs™— natural photodynamic therapy (blue spectrum) with radio frequency (RF) — enable highly selective targeting of the sebaceous glands and acne bacteria. Pulsed Light together with RF energies reduce sebaceous gland activity while blue light simultaneously destroys active acne. Blue light treatment isn’t painful and has no down time.
Home Care
You may be prescribed: Oral antibiotics, Topical antibiotics, or Retin-A ( tretinoin).
Clarisonic developed the sonic technology proven to gently yet effectively loosen dirt and oil to clear your pores. The Sonic Skin Cleansing System uses a patented sonic frequency of more than 300 movements per second to clean, soften and smooth your skin. In just 60 seconds a day, the micro-massage action cleans more than twice as effectively as manual cleansing.
I usually recommend that you apply the Bioglycolic scrub, and leave it on for a few minutes before you wash it off. This will allow the glycolic acid time to penetrate.
Resurfacing Body Scrub combines glycolic acid and polished granules in order to provide an aggressive but safe approach for reaching a noticeably improved level of body skin rejuvenation. This formulation enables patients to immediately address roughened or calloused areas while enhancing overall smoothness and tone. Patients will experience unparalleled softness and results will only increase with continued use.
Obagi Clenziderm M.D. is a 3- step physician dispensed acne treatment. Step #1 is a Foaming cleanser with 2% salicylic acid, to remove excess sebum and cleans skin. Step #2 is Pore Therapy with 2% salicylic acid to help unclog pores, and menthol to remove surface bacteria. Step #3 Serum gel is a 5% solubilized benzoyl peroxide to reduce P. acne bacteria.
Kill acne-causing bacteria and bring back beautiful, healthy-looking skin with the easy-to-use ANSR: BEAM. Just two treatments a day can effectively treat and prevent acne blemishes without side effects. Only the ANSR: BEAM has two light treatments in one device:
BLUE light to kill acne-causing bacteria
RED light to smooth texture and tone, reduce redness and pore size
All of the products and services listed are available at Paradise Valley Skin Klinic.
Call to schedule a treatment or free consultation. 480 421-1701
Paradise Valley Skin Klinic/ Shapiro Plastic Surgery
480 421-1701
www.shapiroplasticsurgery.com
Thank you for visiting Best of Both Worlds Az.
You can follow us on facebook, twitter and on our blog site.
www.bestofbothworldsaz.com
School is back in session but summer is definitely not over. Wearing sunblock every day is just as important in the winter and on cloudy days as it is in the summer and its not just for those planning to be in the sun all day. Those who simply drive to work and work indoors should still apply sunblock everyday. Driving to work is enough sun exposure to activate melanocytes and compromise skin pre and post procedures, such as Fotofacial, Chemical Peels, Laser Hair Removal, Fraxel, and Microlaser Peel. When UVA and UVB light rays enter the skin, they damage the skin cells, causing visible and invisible damage. The cell damage adds up year after year. Built up “invisible” sun damage can lead to skin cancer. The sun breaks down collagen resulting in premature aging, uneven skin tone, freckles, sun spots, and skin cancer. The best way to prevent those unwanted effects from the sun, is to stay out of it, especially between 10am and 4pm, when the suns rays are the strongest.
It is very important to limit sun exposure in childhood, as most of sun damage is done in the first 18 years of life. Start preventing sun damage in childhood now. Block the sun by applying a broad-spectrum UVA and UVB sunscreen lotion with SPF 30 or higher and reapply at least every hour. I prefer chemical-free sunscreens that contain zinc oxide and titanium dioxide, they are more opaque and prevent light from entering the skin. I like the Coppertone Sensitive Skin SPF 50, it has 14% zinc oxide and no fragrance, for the body. I like the Obagi Healthy Skin SPF 35 and Skin Ceuticals Sheer Physical UV Defense SPF 50 for the face. Make sure to apply sun block generously to the skin, and apply 30 minutes before going in the sun. In addition to sunblock, wear sunglasses, protective hats, and protective clothing and stay in the shade as much as possible.
You can find Coopertone Pure and Simple at most drug stores.
You can get Obagi Healthy Skin, SPF 35 and Skin Ceuticals Sheer Physical UV Defense SPF 50 at Paradise Valley Skin Klinic.
Paradise Valley Skin Klinic offers a wide variety of professional skin treatments and products.
Call to schedule a treatment or consultation. 480 421-1701
www.shapiroplastic surgery.com
You can follow Paradise Valley Skin Klinic on facebook.
Thank you for visiting Best of Both Worlds Az.
You can follow us on facebook, twitter and on our blog site.
www.bestofbothworldsaz.com
My teenage son actually asked me to buy him Proactive to treat his breakouts. I almost, fell over. I reminded him of my profession and pointed out that I have access to the best skin care products available. Why did he want Proactive? Marketing: with endorsements like P-Diddy and Jessica Simpson, it’s no surprise that people would be influenced to try it. So, I asked him if he would rather use a medical product that was dispensed by a physician or something sold in a vending machine in the mall. For a teenager that is better reasoning than any scientific explanation.
Obagi Clenziderm M.D. is a 3- step physician dispensed acne treatment. Step #1 is a Foaming cleanser with 2% salicylic acid, to remove excess sebum and cleans skin. Step #2 is Pore Therapy with 2% salicylic acid to help unclog pores, and menthol to remove surface bacteria. Step #3 Serum gel is a 5% solubilized benzoyl peroxide to reduce P. acne bacteria.
Obagi Clenziderm M.D. is unique because it is the only prescription strength acne treatment that contains a patented solubilized form of 5% benzoyl peroxide BPO, to penetrate deep into follicle and treat acne deep where it start. The BPO in the Clenziderm M.D. system is in a liquid form with macro-sized BPO crystals size that is one tenth the size of other BPO products. Average size of BPO crystals are larger than the size of the skin follicle, so they sit on skins surface.
Clenziderm M.D. Before and After 4 weeks
It is important to see a physician or medical esthetician to set up a treatment protocol. For some patients additional products and treatments may be recommended to enhance results. There are also skin care products,medications and treatments that can be contraindicated with this acne therapy. As with any skin treatment, compliance is key. You can schedule a free consultation at Paradise Valley Skin Klinic, Shapiro Plastic
Surgery.
Paradise Valley Skin Klinic offers a wide variety acne treatments and carries Obagi Products .
Call to schedule a treatment or consultation. 480 421-1701
www.shapiroplasticsurgery.com
You can follow Paradise Valley Skin Klinic on facebook.
Thank you for visiting Best of Both Worlds Az.
You can follow us on facebook, twitter and on our blog site.
www.bestofbothworldsaz.com
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