November 2010
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Topical Antioxidants

skin, topical antioxidant

The use of topical antioxidants can help prevent wrinkles, reduce hyperpigmentation (sun spots), and improve skin tone. Topical antioxidants are available in many serums and moisturizer, formulations are available with a variety of antioxidants and strengths.

How Do Topical Antioxidants Work?
A free radical is any atom or molecule that is missing an electron from it’s outer shell, so it attacks an other molecule and steels an electron. The molecule that has been attacked by a free radicle, is now missing an electron and has become another free radical. This creates a chain reaction. Antioxidants stop the chain reaction, by giving an electron to the free radical.

Click to learn more about free radicals and antioxidants

Topical antioxidant stop the chain of reaction caused by free radicals. Free radicals are damaging to the skin and can accelerate extrinsic aging. Although some topical antioxidants are purely antioxidants, some have additional actions.

Topical antioxidants also help protect the skin from UV damage. Human studies have demonstrated protective effects of antioxidants when applied topically before ultraviolet radiation exposure. Antioxidants don’t work the same way that sunblocks do, so you still need a daily SPF. Sunblocks absorb or reflect out UV radiation and antioxidants neutralize the UV rays. Photoprotective topical antioxidants work by the inhibiting the UV-induced biochemical changes that lead to photoageing and DNA mutations.

Vitamin C is currently the most recognized topical antioxidant, however it works synergistically with other antioxidants such as vitamin E. There isn’t any one antioxidant that is effective on all free radicals, you need a variety of antioxidants. Each has a unique set of chemical behaviors and biological properties. Antioxidants work together as part of a network, and no single antioxidant can do the work a group. Some antioxidants may excel at fighting certain types of free radicals, or only work in certain parts of a cell. However, when it comes to topical antioxidants, there are some that are more stable and are better absorbed by the skin.

Types Of Topical Antioxidants

Vitamin C (L-ascorbic)
There are many derivatives vitamin C, however they don’t penetrate well. Look for products that contain L-ascorbic acid. Topical Vitamin C is the most popular topical antioxidant, and for good reason. In fact the benefits are so great, I will need to write an entire post devoted to topical vitamin C.

– Potent antioxidant
– Vitamin C is nessacerry to produce collagen
– Protects skin from both UVA and UVB, by neutralizing the UV rays.
– Can reduce sun – induced pigmentation, due to tyrosinase inhibitor function
– Anti- inflammatory qualities

Retinol ( Derived from Vitamin A )
– promotes healing
– promotes collagen synthesis, and inhibits cellular degeneration
– also increases epidermal thickness, and an emollient

Vitamin B3 ( Niacinamide)
– essential for cellular metabolism
– increases microcirculation

Vitamin E (Alpha Tocopherol)
When choosing a topical vitamin E product, look for a-tocopherol. Vitamin E derivatives such as (tocopherol acetate) are common in cosmetic ingredients, and although they are good as a moisturizing ingredient, they are not antioxidants.

– Protects cell membranes and lipid structures from free radical attack.
– Vitamin E is regenerated when it is in the presence of Vitamin C.
– Vitamin E doubled the UV protection in the skin when added to vitamin C.
– Inhibits the immunosuppression and tumorigenesis induced by ultraviolet radiation.
– Vitamin C can not scavenge lipo-philic radicals directly within the lipid phase, however vitamin C works synergistically with a- tocopherol to reduce lipid peroxide radicals.

Ferulic Acid
– a plant antioxidant
– Increases L-ascorbic acid ( vitamin C) stability.
– synergistic with other antioxidants, specifically vitamin C and E.

A potent antioxidant derived from apples and root bark of fruit trees with a broad range of activity.

– Anti- inflammatory
– Accelerates cell renewal
– Pigment inhibitor
– Enhances product penetration

Zinc Sulfate
– has wound healing and anti-inflammatory ability’s
– UVB protection

Bioflavonoids are a group of substances that are potent antioxidants, many have anti-inflammatory ability and help protect from UV damage.

Centella Asiatica (Asiaticoside, Asiatic Acid, Madecassic Acid)
– promotes collagen synthesis, and inhibits cellular degeneration
– increases microcirculation

Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract ( Green Tea Extract)
– protects cell from oxidative stress
– increases microcirculation in the cell

Alpha Lipoic Acid (ALA)
-Alpha-lipoic acid is an antioxidant that is found in food and is made by the body. It is found in every cell, where it helps turn glucose into energy.
– ALA is both fat- and water-soluble.

Idebenone is a synthetic analog of coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10). CoQ10 is a vitamin-like natural compound found naturally in the body, that plays a pivotal role in the cellular energy production and as an antioxidant. Idebenone is closely related to CoQ10, however it is more water-soluble. Idebenone has been known as a pharmaceutical agent since the 1980’s, before it became popular as a skin care ingredient.

There are claims that idebenone is the most powerful topical antioxidant available, based on it’s EPF® rating. I have not been able to confirm that an “EPF” rating is an actual recognized rating, or verify the strength of antioxidants that were used in the EPF study. There are also studies that show that idebenone, offers less photoprotective value compared to topical vitamin C. I would like to find an independent study that compares L-ascorbic acid 20% to Idebenone 1%, until then it is hard to say which is truly the stronger antioxidant. Personally, I alternate between an Idebenone product and a topical vitamin C serum.

Topical Antioxidant Products

Phloretin CF, antioxidant

Skin Ceuticals Phloretin CF®
Phloretin (2%), vitamin C ( 10% L- ascorbic acid ) and ferulic acid (.5%)

C E Ferulic, antioxidant

Skin Ceuticals C E Ferulic®
Vitamin C (15% L-ascorbic acid), Vitamin E (1% alpha tocopherol), and ferulic acid (.5%)
Ferulic acid doubles the synergistic benefits of the vitamins C+E.

Skin Ceuticals
Skin Ceuticals Serum 20
Available in four concentrations of L -ascorbic acid. 20%,15%,10% and a 5% Eye gel.
All are formulated with ferulic acid to enhance antioxidant performance.

Vitamin C
Obagi C-RX- Clarifying Serum
First and only 4% hydroquinone, vitamin C ( 10% L-ascorbic acid)

Obagi CRX
Obagi Professional-C Serums
Available in four concentrations of L-ascorbic acid .
20% Highest concentration of L-ascorbic acid
15% All skin types
10% Dry, sensitive or reactive skin
5% Protection for the sensitive eye area

pro heal
Is Clinical Pro Heal Advanced Serum+
New time-released L ascorbic acid (in a 15 percent concentration) plus Copper Tripeptide Growth Factor maximize performance
Zinc Sulfate, Vitamin E ( Alpha Tocopherol), Retinol, Soluble Bioflavonoids
Olea Europea (olive leaf extract)- Synergistic with vitamins C and E, also antibiotic, anti-acneic, anti-inflammatory.
Mushroom Extract (a source of Kojic acid) – natural lightening to even pigment, antibacterial
Arbutin – corrects abnormal pigmentation by inhibiting tyrosinase enzyme.

super serum
IS Clinical Super Serum Advance+
New time-released L ascorbic acid (in a 15 percent concentration) plus Copper Tripeptide Growth Factor maximize performance.
Zinc Sulfate, Centella Asiatica
Pentapeptide Amino Acids – protein building blocks, increases cellular metabolism and integrity.
Mushroom Extract (a source of Kojic acid) – natural lightening to even pigment, antibacterial

prevage md antioxidant
Prevage MD (Idebenone 1% )
Prevage MD, is only available from a physician, and is (.1% Idebenone) compared to Prevage that is only (.05% idebenone)

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9:14 pm - Posted by Kristy

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